ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Which Amp for the car.



  ITB BG 182
Im after an amp to power my sub which is an Alpine Type R Sub - 10" - SWR1042D.
Just some thing to power it pref an Alpine unit.
 
  ITB BG 182
i want some thing that is Alpine as every thing else in the car is also Alpine, but some thing to sit on top of the sub box yet powerful enough to power the sub.
I did look at the v12 range but the price of them are a little out of my budget, i was going to buy my mates DD-Drive blue subs but they are 12 and 15 inch.
Really some thing like thats just been pointed out not too much over the £100 range £150 at a stretch then ill need to find some one that can come out to my house and fit it all in to the car properly as im currently off the road till november but want the car to be better for when i start again.
Oh an i have no flaming clue about wiring as im colour deficient.
 
  Clio 1.2 Dynamique 05
I have the Same sub - Fantastic Quality and Punch...

Use this Sub, Was kinda Skint at the time, but this has far out done itself!!

Powers it easily to far more then i need, let alone can personally handle!!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KENWOOD-KAC-6...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

Looks quite good too, sits nicely on the back of the box and powers away, really good quality and easy to install!!

Surprisingly good...

Cheers, Sam

Haha! Can personally handle... I have a 12" type r. Your telling me you dont think a type r can handle 80watts rms? It can handle over 500, its probably distorting because your putting s**t power into it rather than nice clean power. Im currently running a kenwood 2x 250W rms and its booming.
 
  No wheels :(
Can personally handle alot!!

Whacked it up and it shook my Air Freshner Lizard off the Windscreen!!

Awesome Amp, Dont Diss ;)

Haven't tried anything 'Better' as this has been far than sufficient!!

Cheers, Sam
 
  Clio 1.2 Dynamique 05
well mine would tend to set off car alarms if you drive past them slowly :)
but all im saying is, you can get a lot more power out of it. maybe you like your bass quite subtle
 
  No wheels :(
NO!!

Like it so my ears will bleed!!

They really this powerful??

I can hear it begin to distort, thought this was just the Sub's cabability?!?!

Really the Amp thats the issue??

Cheers, Sam
 
  vaux cavalier
Im after an amp to power my sub which is an Alpine Type R Sub - 10" - SWR1042D.
Just some thing to power it pref an Alpine unit.

some relevant information would be ideal mate;

1, enclosure type & size...
2, type of music usually played...
3, desired effect, (sq, sql, spl)...
4, front end specs, (components??? amp???)...

a speakers RMS input is measured at 0dB....
an amps RMS output is measured at a specific voltage playing a 0dB test tone...

it's impossible to record music at 0dB, so it's impossible for an amp to achieve its RMS output whilst playing music, so i would suggest an amp which will do 1000watts RMS into a 2ohm impedence.....

the only amp which falls into this category, in budget, with superb reliability is the JBL GTO1201.1.....

ebay link
 
  No wheels :(
Really...

Gonna have to seriously look into this :)

What is the next amp i should go for then??

By someones recommendation...

Kinda asking the same thing as the thread title now...

Oh, Mines a 10inch Sub... not 12, sorry, this make much difference??

Thought it would just be punchier and not as deep notes hit...

Cheers, Sam
 
  vaux cavalier
sq? sql? spl?

New words to me...

Thought i was in there with the Lingo of Car audio...

Cheers, Sam

Sorry mate.....

sq----sound quality. (output not an issue, just pure quality).
sql----sound quality loud. (a loud system that retains reasonable quality).
spl----sound pressure level. (pure output, its all about the numbers).

Yes Sam, the sub can handle a LOT more. The amp is not powerful enough so is sending distorted power.

a speaker merely reproduces sound based entirely on the signal it recieves, if this signal is 'clipped' either at source, (headunit), or amplifier then distorted sound will result.....it's very difficult to detect early or slight clipping when listening to bass, so its always wise to be cautious with volume levels and gain controls.....

with regards lower power amps causing distortion; simple answer is they don't.....an amp delivering 100watts rms will retain quality as long as its correctly setup and matched to the sources pre-out voltage....

problems arise when people turn up the gain to compensate for low amplifier power, this will promote 'clipping', (distortion), which in turn promotes excess heat build up within the speaker/coils....

best scenario, when matching subs to amps with a bias toward output, opt for at least a 50% increase in amp output power, so a sub rated at 300watts rms would warrant an amplifier capable of at least 450watts rms into the particular subs impedence....

Really...

Gonna have to seriously look into this :)

What is the next amp i should go for then??

By someones recommendation...

Kinda asking the same thing as the thread title now...

Oh, Mines a 10inch Sub... not 12, sorry, this make much difference??

Thought it would just be punchier and not as deep notes hit...

Cheers, Sam

ideally system 'punch' should really come from the mids, not the sub/subs....

the size of the driver doesn't really alter its power requirements....it does in general have a bearing on its output though, a 10" sub will seem quieter than a 15" sub off similar power, this is down to cone area and the amount of air movement....
 
  Focus RS Mk1
why not buy something within your range but still good and just hide it, so its not on show. can get any make of amp u want then :)
 
  ITB BG 182
Im after an amp to power my sub which is an Alpine Type R Sub - 10" - SWR1042D.
Just some thing to power it pref an Alpine unit.

some relevant information would be ideal mate;

1, enclosure type & size...
2, type of music usually played...
3, desired effect, (sq, sql, spl)...
4, front end specs, (components??? amp???)...

a speakers RMS input is measured at 0dB....
an amps RMS output is measured at a specific voltage playing a 0dB test tone...

it's impossible to record music at 0dB, so it's impossible for an amp to achieve its RMS output whilst playing music, so i would suggest an amp which will do 1000watts RMS into a 2ohm impedence.....

the only amp which falls into this category, in budget, with superb reliability is the JBL GTO1201.1.....

ebay link

1, enclosure type & size... What enclosure, i have not got one yet as i dont know what type i want/need.
2, type of music usually played... Everything apart from boy/girl bands and pre fab groups or singers, i even listen to some classical.
3, desired effect, (sq, sql, spl)... what, what and what?
4, front end specs, (components??? amp???)... Type R's all round with a cde 9848e head unit.

Sam, you narna im the one that bourght the sub off you.
 
  ITB BG 182
why not buy something within your range but still good and just hide it, so its not on show. can get any make of amp u want then :)
BUT i dont know which bloody amp to buy, i nearly spent £200 on one but then got told it would be too much.
 
  vaux cavalier
so, all you have at present is;

headunit
corner speakers, (front & rear) driven by the headunit
sub.....

you listen to all types of music....

i'd go with a sealed enclosure and an amp capable of 1000watts rms into 2ohm impedance.....

this will give nice tight bass with a fair amount of authority....but, with current speakers being headunit driven, you could find the bass will tend to drown them out, to counter this simply lower the gain.....(its ok to use the gain to limit output power, just not ok to try to boost output power past the point of 'clip')....
 
  ITB BG 182
so, all you have at present is;

headunit
corner speakers, (front & rear) driven by the headunit
sub.....

you listen to all types of music....

i'd go with a sealed enclosure and an amp capable of 1000watts rms into 2ohm impedance.....

this will give nice tight bass with a fair amount of authority....but, with current speakers being headunit driven, you could find the bass will tend to drown them out, to counter this simply lower the gain.....(its ok to use the gain to limit output power, just not ok to try to boost output power past the point of 'clip')....
Wallop, if i get all the stuff an paid you to set it up for me would you as i dont have a flaming clue about half the things your going on about
 
  vaux cavalier
If you amp is dual 2ohm voice coils, i would go with this
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/8064.html

if it is dual 4ohm perhaps roll with
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/6501.html


Why recommend 2ch class A/B amps for a sub???

I understand class A/B will produce slightly better sound quality, but they also burn more current....always a concern with stock power/charge circuits....

I say go class D mono and go for double the subs rated input power, this will allow amplifier headroom, (always good), and scope to upgrade later....
 
  Clio 1.2 Dynamique 05
The second alpine one is clearly class D digital. The first is just a more budget amp, i bought this kenwood last week and its fantastic, but if you really have the money go for the class D alpine amp.

Second reason for my choice, I may get rid of the sub and get some amazing compnents and use the 2 channel to amp them.
 
  vaux cavalier
are you local to Derby mate.....
Yea im at the other end of the A52 in nottingham. i would come to you but im off the road till november. :dapprove:

AH, I see your problem.....

My advice would be;

Plan your install around what YOU want....unfortunately your not entirely sure what YOU want so we are at present simply throwing recommendations at you....

You need to get out and actually listen to a few different installs and see which type best suits YOU....

with regards sub enclosure; arguably the most important item once power & source are sorted, you need to work out how much room you have for your enclosure, this will tend to dictate if your going 'ported' or 'sealed', (wouldn't advise 'band-pass' due to tuning/efficiency issues)....

once you decide on enclosure type, you can then decide on amplifier power required, watt for watt ported is louder, so a ported enclosure could use a smaller amp, sealed enclosures tend to be smaller & offer higher/tighter cone control, so some would say better sound quality, (personally i don't agree, a custom designed ported enclosure matched to a sub and car will out perform a sealed in 90% of cases).....

Oh dear, I'm rambling on again.....

Get out and listen to a few different setups mate, whilst your listening ask the owners questions, you will soon formulate an idea of what YOU want.....

once your sorted, let me know and I will try to get over to tune it for you...
 
  ITB BG 182
Well i know there is loud bass that people can hear you coming from a mile away then theres actual bass as i like to say where people cant so much hear it but feel it which is what i would be after.
My main music is D&B, HardHouse and trance/dance stuff.
Ive known people that have massive installs in the cars/vans but never really botherd with the technical stuff, I got into Alpine equipment from the rep they have an also that 75% of my mates have full Alpine set ups from as little as a grands worth (easily done) right up to 22k's worth.

But im just starting with my system for the first time and ive lost contact with the old lot, ill upgrade my headunit in a year as a friend gets an upgrade headunit every year with his job selling the stuff and ill go from there on bits and bobs as i go along.
 


Top