i used a stage 1 hill power williams chip and standard 16v box with williams chip, allow for new cam belt and tensioners and albsolutly everythiing to be replaced while its out, it cost me about £350 in bits from GSF and another £50 or so from renault,
the gearbox is a compromise, but beware all these gearboxs dont take kindly to any impact pushing the drive shfts into the box, it f**ks them up, something to do with the caseing what means you get the drive shaft popping out and all sorts of problems, so its somthime better to stick with what you know to be a pukker box when you consider the labour involved, and its not obvious if a box is going to play up intill its been run a bit. or go the whole rog and get a proepr williams box for £550 exhange from renault, its a differnt beast.
other consider ations are things like manifolds, i sold the willaims manifold and kept the cast 16v item as the tubular willy item wont match a 16v front pipe, and likewise the front pipe to the cat. the 16v item is good for torgue according to nick hill, i also used a full magnew and de-cat and a piperX induction kit to free things up and keep it relativily matched to the chip,
you will fine when buying parts that they list for the F7P not the F7R, but almost everything is interchangable, dont fall into the trap of going to renault for everything, i only bought gaskets and a few little bits from renault, all belts, tensioners, engine mounts i bought from GSF, all bar the noteable exception of the dogbone which is best bought from hill power as an uprated item again to prevent the engine swinging about when it breaks and causing similar drive shaft/gearbox caseing problems.
get the right plugs, they need ordering from GSF and they will normaly try and fob you off with something similar, they are twin pronged as standard i believe.
engine mounts are the same and are best replaced
the loom is all the same except we have one wire left over that goes just above the idle controll valve, its all willy inlet and everything but there just dosent seem to be anywhere for it to go and eveything works OK so i just tucked it inwith the others
(proper job!)
also i would chnage the theromostats and rad switch stat. all little preventative measurers to stop you cooking it,
there is more bits i mought that i have forgot about i expect,
its an easy swap considering, but its a real pig to line the mounts up when it goes back in, there isnlt much room for error,
Also as opposed to normal valver jobs take the engine out the top rather than dropping it on the sub frame (one of my sub-frame nuts was cross threaded where it had been out so many times, nightmare) and remove the bonet on the circlips on the hinges nit on the 8 bolts, it takes 30 seconds to whp the bonnet off rathe than hours with snapped bolts and re-aligning.
i would get the head ported and polished while its off if your doing a short block swap, mine came complete willaims so i just whipped the rocker cover off and looked for wear on the cams and they were like mint, and the date stamp was sept 1995 for assembely so it was a late willy 3, so the head stayed on,
yes 32mm inlets give btter peek power slightly, but the 30mm inlet 16v head flows very well anyway so i wouldnt put 32mm inlets at the top of your list, (Nick Hill made these findings on a dyno, not me guessing)
overall, im very pleased with my swap, bags of torque, and its loads faster than previously, lots more than the 13BHP would seem,
im just trying to kill the box now so i can have a williams one,
sorry for the mistakes, but i was typing quickly
