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Wiring fogs up to flash - GUIDE



  172 Cup
Mods, move to the correct section if this is in the wrong place, cheers.

Ok...

you need:

A switch
Some wire
Some tools
and a cup of tea

First thing you're going to want to do is remove the steering wheel surround.
This is done by removing the 3 torx screws located on the bottom half of the surround, circled below:
30032009886.jpg


The top bit comes off pretty straight forward, however the bottom is kind of held in place by the radio steering wheel remote thingy majig:
30032009889.jpg


You remove this by first removing the two torx screws (different size to steering wheel surround screws) and then pulling it apart (BUT NOT ALL THE WAY OTHERWISE YOU BREAK IT) This is quite possibly the most annoying part, so suggest before you get pissed off with it and kick it off you sit back and drink the tea.


When you finally remove the remote, the bottom half of the column surround just slides off and over the remaining bit left over from the remote. (Seriously haven't found an easy way to remove this, if anyone has, please let me know)

Now you should be left with a bare steering column complete with some wire's lol

On the top on the left hand side you should find quite a large connection block. It just simply pulls out. (No pics of this sorry)

Now for mine I located a switch by my headlight level controller and dash brightness controller:
30032009888.jpg


From here I had 3 wires which ran:
1) Flash
2) Fogs
3) Earth

30032009887.jpg


The Earth is pretty easy just find a nice bit of the dash you can earth to.
I used this location:
28032009875.jpg


The other wire ran to the large white cable on the connector block we removed earlier.

Please note the order of the cables, you want the white cable furthest away from the large blue one:
28032009878.jpg


The third wire connects to the fogs, now he's the fun bit.
At the end of the indicator stalk (inside the column) you have 4 connections.
1 = Front fogs
2 = Dash lights
3 = Rear fogs
4 = Horn
28032009881.jpg


I did think about wiring the horn up instead so when you flash someone you also give them a blast of the horn, but clearly not as useful.

The one we need is the white connection at the top:

28032009883.jpg


Obviously this will only work when the connector block is plugged back in. So don't try testing it with the block unplugged because your indicator stalk has nothing connected to it.

I connected everything up again and tested it before finally securing all the connections.

The switch is obviously ideal because at MoT time you can turn them off so it's just headlights that flash (not sure if it's illegal or not to flash with fogs but you never know).

Either way.

Once you've secured your connections, put the surround back, and then the annoying radio remote (which is just as annoying as removal, I seriously considered leaving this off at one stage :mad: )

Put all your torx screws back in and jobs a good'n

:D
 
  vaux cavalier
I personally wouldn't do this....To avoid the risk of overloading the switch or creating a point of high resistance I would use the Headlight Flash supply feed as a switching current for a 30amp relay....The addition of a dash switch to isolate this function should also be fitted into this switching supply....The main supply should come from the battery via the relay to the fog lamps....

Rather like;

frontflash_fog2.jpg


Any modification to the stock loom needs to be fully checked out, (If OP has done this, ignore me)....

Any form of electrical fire, (whether from overload or dead short), in the vicinity of these splices will incur the wrath of your ins company in the event of a claim....

Anyone who modifies a cars electrical loom without any thought toward safety, (fusing, switch overloading etc etc), is risking ins payout in the event of fire....
 
  PH1 172 Sport
All he's doing is using the high beam switch to turn on the fog switch which in turn turns on the fog lights relay which then powers the lights! The high beam circuit will not be powering the fogs.
 
  Polo + Micra
but surely just putting a 1A diode between the the headlight relay coil and the fog light relay coil and also put a switch in to isolate it?
 
  Ph1 172 + Combo van
I done this few months ago the way wallop has said.

Relay with its own power supply seemed like the best idea to me.
 
  Polo + Micra
i don't see why you would need to add any relays as they would already be installed for fogs and main beams

you'd only just be slightly altering the way they are controlled
 

Da

  Less
As Dink says, there is no need for extra wiring or relays. All you need to do is link the two remotes on the headlight and fog relays, once you've worked out the terminal numbers.
 
  vaux cavalier
Like I said;

Any modification to the stock loom needs to be fully checked out, (If OP has done this, ignore me)....

I don't own a Clio manual, so I can't check out how the circuits concerned are wired, I can only go by info displayed....

The stock looms are designed/built down to a budget, I can't imagine Renault would use that guage of power cable to/from the switches unless it was needed....

The choice is yours mate....
 
  172 Cup
Just for reference, this was installed on my previous Clio. However, I didn't actually originally wire it up. Just stole it from my old Cup and put it on my new one then wrote up the guide.

I can try and find out who originally done it if need be.

Do you think there is a fire risk then?
 
  Bumder With A Buffer
^^^ I would say not likely, if you did it how Dink said above.

But your way, as in the gauge wire used... couldnt say. Although worst case is you would burn through the wire.
 
  BMW M135i
The steering wheel remote just clips out and can be unplugged from the lower column surround, no need to dismantle it it just comes out as one.
 
  ALBI 197 Sonic MKII
My mate did this another way which was quite smart. He wired his Fiesta so that each headlamp would flash independantly
 


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