Your most beneficial track modification

[MarkT]

Afternoon all,
Going off on a bit of a tangent from the usual "what modifications should i do to improve my Clio's handling" question and to have the response "Do a search"! What would you suggest the most beneficial modifications you have undertaken to your own track/fact road car and also what have you regretted doing/considered being a waste of money?
Thanks :smile:

 

[Crybert]

Weight

 

[JB21]

The most beneficial track mod would be tuition for any inexperienced track driver.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Tuition > Tyres > Brakes > Suspension.

Although adding a diff will be well up there with the best, once it's fitted.

 

[MarkT]

Should imagine that tuition would be a good thing for pretty much any driver?

 

[JB21]

Should imagine that tuition would be a good thing for pretty much any driver?

It would yeah, but much more beneficial to a novice as it would teach them the lines and braking zones of the track and also importantly for me track etiquette. You wouldn't believe the amount of tools on track days who drive like complete idiots, they're mostly in high end cars TBH who don't like to be overtaken by an old Clio.

 

[Goodj]

Full shell lightening > Megane turbo lump swap > full slicks > Aero > rebuildable, fully-adjustable suspension > 6-pot conversion > watching F1 for instructions

 

[Andy Tims]

Tuition > Tyres > Brakes > Suspension.

That's about right for any driver / car combo.
The sort of tuition / coaching you need varies with experience of course.

 

[masekwm]

Tuition > Tyres > Brakes > Suspension.

Although adding a diff will be well up there with the best, once it's fitted.

Exactly mine on my Cup, Tuition > Tyres > Brakes > Diff/Suspension

Did diff & suspension at the same time so can't compare without either.

My turbo shows me how shocking some of these cars must be, oh we're going really fast, but we can't stop!

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Exactly mine on my Cup, Tuition > Tyres > Brakes > Diff/Suspension

Did diff & suspension at the same time so can't compare without either.

My turbo shows me how shocking some of these cars must be, oh we're going really fast, but we can't stop!

I'd wager on the diff being a good few seconds saved.

 

[George@RTR_Parts]

tuition/seat time> brakes> suspension>tyres

Seat time with instruction is the most beneficial for me, having good brakes you're confident in helps you push on , and decent pads (I run the ds1.11) which have nice release characteristics suits my driving style

suspension is worth while , but must be set up and aligned properly or wasting your time/money

Tyres, 4 x matching decent tyres , then can get in the semi slick type tyres rsr, ns2r, r888 etc. To start on these covers a lot of driver flaws imo , and also if on old/tired/standard suspension will rock like a boat.

 

[Pauleds]

Petrol.


Can't go anywhere without it.

 

[MarkT]

So getting to the heart of it all. Time at the wheel and tuition are paramount, however beyond that were looking at decent brakes (Carbone Loraine?) Decent tyres and then suspension modifications. Clearly a lot of peoples response is to "stick a set of coilovers on it" however this seems to me a little pointless if the car isn't set-up properly. Would people say that its more beneficial to hone the geometry prior to coilover fittment (I appreciate the geometry will change when coilovers are added) or just to stick a set of coilovers on a car and work on the geometry afterwards?

 

[Knuckles]

Tuition > Tyres > Brakes > Suspension.

Although adding a diff will be well up there with the best, once it's fitted.

This.

I found my way somewhat around the track with tuition
>
Found my road tyres weren't good enough so got semi slicks
>
Found my brakes weren't good enough so got better ones
>
I think I now don't go quick enough so I'll get some more tuition.

All the suspension, cages, strut braces and power will do sweet fa if you can't drive.

Take a few people out with you and go out with other people to give you tips and tricks too.

And learn to heel and toe. And maybe left foot brake.

 

[Knuckles]

So getting to the heart of it all. Time at the wheel and tuition are paramount, however beyond that were looking at decent brakes (Carbone Loraine?) Decent tyres and then suspension modifications. Clearly a lot of peoples response is to "stick a set of coilovers on it" however this seems to me a little pointless if the car isn't set-up properly. Would people say that its more beneficial to hone the geometry prior to coilover fittment (I appreciate the geometry will change when coilovers are added) or just to stick a set of coilovers on a car and work on the geometry afterwards?

I'd only spend the money on coilovers if the standard suspension isn't good enough for you.

If you're getting the most out of the suspension, then change it for coilovers and get it set up like you say.

 

[MarkT]

Thanks, decent coilovers are a decent quantity of money and in all reality the full benefit wont be apparent without supporting mods.

I probably should have been a little clearer in my initial question. I was angling more at specific modifications such as converting front wishbones to run bearings, converting the rear axle to run bearings, front roll centre correction etc. Personally i don't think there's much point chasing power until the chassis is fully developed and the car is being driven to its full potential. I have run a Quaife diff before in my old XE nova, i'm very aware of the advantages, however reading into it the initial outlay is substantial for a budget track car.

I've had several fast road cars over the years and am familliar with the pitfalls etc with modifying. What i wanted from your answers was to formulate a succinct approach towards modifying that wont have me spending money good after bad.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Upgrading/modifying the whole chassis and suspension would be fairly costly I'd imagine.

 

[Fletcher]

For me, semi slicks or LSD.

 

[MarkT]

Upgrading/modifying the whole chassis and suspension would be fairly costly I'd imagine.

But the thing is with the chassis upgrades, each element is a smaller chunk of money. Yes ultimately you will spend more money but the development and progression of the car will continue on a more linear path

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

It would take a decent driver to reach the limit of the standard chassis i think.

 

[JB21]

If you're a novice with no or little track experience then just get a set of cheap 15s with semi slicks (used ebay tyres are peanuts) , make sure the brakes, suspension and chassis are relatively fresh and get some uprated front pads (CL, Ferodo, Mintex) and you're good to go. Learn the car and tracks then adds mods to what you think it needs, coilovers, diff, poly bushes etc.

 

[MarkT]

If you're a novice with no or little track experience then just get a set of cheap 15s with semi slicks (used ebay tyres are peanuts) , make sure the brakes, suspension and chassis are relatively fresh and get some uprated front pads (CL, Ferodo, Mintex) and you're good to go. Learn the car and tracks then adds mods to what you think it needs, coilovers, diff, poly bushes etc.

And if you're not?

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

And if you're not?

If not, then surely you don't need to be asking these questions...

 

[MarkT]

I wanted other peoples views

 

[MarkT]

No one has actually given me specifics in terms of modifications, just general areas in what they think should be done.

 

[MarkT]

I probably should have been a little clearer in my initial question. I was angling more at specific modifications such as converting front wishbones to run bearings, converting the rear axle to run bearings, front roll centre correction etc. Personally i don't think there's much point chasing power until the chassis is fully developed and the car is being driven to its full potential. I have run a Quaife diff before in my old XE nova, i'm very aware of the advantages, however reading into it the initial outlay is substantial for a budget track car.

I've had several fast road cars over the years and am familliar with the pitfalls etc with modifying. What i wanted from your answers was to formulate a succinct approach towards modifying that wont have me spending money good after bad.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Have a look at @Tomotek build.

That would be my ideal setup.

 

[MarkT]

Have a look at @Tomotek build.

That would be my ideal setup.

Thank you

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

It wouldn't be cheap if you were to pay someone to do the work he's done, but in terms of chassis strengthening it is the way to go.

 

[MarkT]

It wouldn't be cheap if you were to pay someone to do the work he's done, but in terms of chassis strengthening it is the way to go.

I'm fairly handy in the workshop, so far his thread looks great. Good attention to detail. Ultimately i'd like not to go the whole hog as my E30 project should take priority however these things do snowball!

 

[green]

Get a LSD fitted.. best mod out there

 

[Pauleds]

If it's just a budget toy as it's just something to do while you build something else, just go out and have a laugh with it as it is.

I had as much fun thrashing a stripped out but standard focus 170 round oulton with standard pads and crap tyres as I did in the clio with decent tyres and proper brakes.

It was nowhere near as fast but the fun was still there.

Don't need to be doing this, that and the other and blowing money.

 

[Ads29]

Solid rear axle bushes, made a huge difference compared to the old original standard ones (changed to powerflex black series)

 

[Danith]

My subwoofer and choonz system.
No seriously the best 'mod' you can do is tyres. the best money spent would be tuition I reckon. Or is for me cos I'm not Nigel Mansell.

 

[Adam G]

Tuition and seat time. You can drive around anything else. If you're sensible and realise the car's limitations, nothing else needs doing.

 

[Andy_con]

surely a heel and toe pedal is at the top of the list, must add at least 50bhp on?

 

[TRH_Racing]

Tuition