Riggers' 96-Spec JDM Dc2...

[jamie rigby]

ive bought 250mm of 3.5'' stainless of ebay to get it tucked right behind the headlight and im also goig to sort a cold air feed too eventually

... pipe came today so filter removed, airbox bracket removed, area degreased -

pipe chopped, filed, painted, fitted -

much better -

 

[joe18two]

I bet that sounds lovely when the vtec crossover comes in.

 

[jamie rigby]

I bet that sounds lovely when the vtec crossover comes in.

does sound savage, not quite as loud as it was without the pipe on extending it to behind the headlight tho



RARB polybushes arrived the other day, so old bush vs new polybush -

the old ones are either the ones meant for a 98spec or just that worn they've oversize 1-2mm lol...
new ones fitted -

car feels a lot tighter now at the rear as it felt rather 'loose' before... still very soft tho due to the 4 1/2 year old coilovers that arnt damper adjustable... new coilovers shall be ordered soon once ive been for a proper b-road blast to make up my mind as atm it feels like itll be pants on track with how soft it is


ive also re-fitted the expanision tank as apparently the filler cap on the rad acts as a vacuum when closed once its opened to release any coolant

 

[jamie rigby]

got a couple of key parts that were at the top of my list, firstly a steering wheel that's in a hell of a lot better condition that mine is/was...

so, old -

compared with the new one, see the wear on the top of the old one and how faded it was -

much better!

also got an OSF wing...

...because the one on the car is cream and full of deep scratches, cant really tell much in the pics but it stands out a mile in person

will be swapping that sunday!

 

[Bren Rogers]

Done a fair bit since I saw this last. Looking fresher.

 

[jamie rigby]

Done a fair bit since I saw this last. Looking fresher.

yeh man had to get all the niggly bits done and make it my own!


I've just ordered a set of Meister Zeta S Coilovers, they have 8kg/447lb front and 6kg/335lb rear springs so shouldn't be too harsh but still a lot stiffer than it is atm with dampening adjustment!

 

[jamie rigby]

coilovers came today whilst I was at work

wasted no time fitting them, got the rear jacked up and wheels off, then the very first bolt I went to undo snapped, great, drilled it out about then managed to get the shock past the control arm, heres the bolt snapped, on the other side is a capative nut -

spent around an hour drilling it out, got it out in the end but damaged the capative nut and I don't have a spare bolt, had a route through all my old bolts from the fiestas and none of them had the same pitch thread so ive just had to jam one in and im going to change the lower arm and fit a proper bolt

forgot to take a pick of the rears fitted, heres one I got of the fronts -

luckily had no trouble undoing or removing anything else after that one first bolt

I just guessed the height and set them the same on the coilovers but lowering it back down to the ground,

looks at a decent height tbh just thing the rear needs raising a tad, when doing that it'll take some of the camber out too

 

[imprezaworks]

Looks ace

 

[Rob]

Looks like it needs spacing out a bit now though? Wheels look a little lost. Love it other than that though!

 

[jamie rigby]

got a pair of rear lower control/trailing arms and afew spare bolts -

control arm removed with the damaged capative nut from drilling the snapped bolt off/out -

new arm fitted -

also noticed the other day that it has polybushed RARB linkages -

I was thinking of polybushing the rear trailing arms ive just got but thought i'll leave them, as I don't want it solid, ill only do them if they need replacing in the future

wound the rear up 5mm and here's how its sitting now -

 

[rollerdan]

Sits perfect bud , i want a dc2 so bad :/ sell me this one then

 

[jamie rigby]

Sits perfect bud , i want a dc2 so bad :/ sell me this one then

in afew years maybe it aint going anywhere soon haha








loving the drive/feel of them, car feels so much tighter and not that much
stiffer and ive not tried them off soft yet

treated some of the surface rust underneath with attacking it with a
wirebrush and painting some hammerite under seal over, still got the boot floor
to do but will do that one dry day next week

faffed with some 5mm spacers to see what to do spacer wise as looking at the
pics above you'll notice with it being 30mm lower than it original was when I
got it that's now added camber and with the wheels only being I think 6.5j they
it now could do with some spacers, come the the conclusion that 10mm for the
fronts and 5mm for the rears and that'd be perfect... but I don't think its
possible to get 10mm hubcentric spacers without changing the studs so I think
i'll end up just buying 4x 5mm spacers off ebay, not universal crap ones as ive
already got them, i'll get the correct 4x114.3mm ones so I know they're even so
I wont end up with any wheel wobble

 

[RDH]

What the price of consumables/servicable parts like compared to say a 1*2. I want a car to track, would love something V-tec but I'm struggling to ignore the peanuts it cost to run and repair a Clio.

 

[Philip.]

It's probably a tad more than a Clio, but also more reliable than a Clio.

 

[DanielJames]

I'd say the same if not less, cambelt for example will be around 25% of the cost of that on a Clio.

 

[jamie rigby]

What the price of consumables/servicable parts like compared to say a 1*2. I want a car to track, would love something V-tec but I'm struggling to ignore the peanuts it cost to run and repair a Clio.

all ive done is change the oil and filter which is the same with any car, ive notta clue how much a cambelt kit costs and hopefully i'll never need to know as this was replaced in april so in my ownership it wont need doing unless the engine fails

taking one on track without an oil cooler you need top of the range oil like millers cfs and baffled sump is a must to some people unlike on a clio you don't need one as they already have like a baffle plate iirc... I only think one should be needed on these if running like R888s which i'll never be doing so I think before I go on track i'll just be servicing it with some proper oil instead of budget crap from Euro Car Parts haha

 

[jamie rigby]

changed the wing Saturday after a mate saying 'we doing the wing then' after me just planning to wash it and go for a drive... so I thought 'YES' while I had a 2nd pair of hands...

so got the car up in the air, removed the wheel and side skirt, pulled the bumper back abit to get to the 2x 10mm bolts behind it, undone the other 6x bolts and one wing removed -

new wing fitted and car cleaned -

that's more like it, no more cream and scratched wing!

so.. we went for a drive, car was abit soft so I had a play and found out there are 36 settings to the damoers so I sat them to 18 and went at that and fcuk me it handles well, bloody awesome, all was going well flowing around afew country roads until WOBBLE WOBBLE WOBBLE... I thought a wheel was about to fall off, panicked and pulled over, checked all the wheel nuts and shook all the wheels, all seemed fine, carried one 1/4mile with the wheels clunking, doining it more so when the car wasn't under load and still the same so jacked both sides up and everything was fine, then I thought ffs new driveshafts here I come...

so before buying new shafts ive ordered new lower engine/torque mounts as one is collapsed and one is cracked rather badly so for the sake of £30 each plus postage from Tegiwa ive ordered them and get them changed hopefully tomorrow then if its still knocking ill be ordering some new sahfts from Tegiwa!

ive just rasied the front up 5mm as it was bloody low and the angle on the shafts wasn't good but I have messaged tegiwa and they said the civic cup racers use 50 profile tyres too but theyre common to fail on DC2s now, as I seen at Oulton Park 3 weeks ago the racers do also run rather low too probs around the same as this was before raising it that 5mm

wheel spacers and other plans I had can wait till its sorted

 

[Gaz85]

Really like this need to stop looking at them on ph

 

[jamie rigby]

so, driverside new vs old torque mounts -

old passenger side one -

new, lined up -

I thought 'wtf' at the centre hole as to why its so large and theres no insert of any sort, spoken to the guy at the breakers who ive got afew parts from and he undone afew old mounts whilst on the phone and said 'nope, none of them have inserts'... brilliant design there Honda...

so fitted and tested the car, still doing the knocking nouse just not as bad, then got the car on axel stands and ran the car in 3rd gear with using a battery to hold the accelerator down slightly and I got underneath and the part that's knocking is nearside driveshaft where it slides into tha part mounted onto the back of the engine :evil:

 

[jamie rigby]

got a halfshaft from a breakers yesterday -

so just changed that, tackling nuts and bolts that hadn't been undone in 17years isn't fun but taken around 90mins, started it up on the axel stands and it was quiet, a little movement in the bearing in it but nothing like the old one and no noises coming from it, but theres still a noise and slight wheel wobble there so ive ordered new shafts from Tegiwa along with a new rear lower engine mount as I noticed mine has collapsed -

not looking forward to changing that as its right down the back of the engine nor the driveshafts, hate cars at times!!
when I ordered the torque mounts I ordered a vtec solenoid gasket to go with the new cam cap I got from Honda afew weeks ago -

so changed them, easy job for one only taken 10mins to do both -

so yeh, driveshfats and mount should be here Monday, anyone fancy swapping them as I cba? lol, just looking forward to driving it again properly and knowing that it has all new lower mounts and new driveshafts will be good for piece of mind for the future

 

[jamie rigby]

new shafts came today -

only taken around 30mins per side to change all in, got away without undoing the track rod ends or ARB
the mount also came too, so takled that with loads of room for access...

...not! literally the most difficult job ive ever done on a car, taken around 2 1/2 hours all in with have to jack the car/engine up and down, undo other mounts, take off that huge mount thing that its attatched to so I could pull it out underneath and the subframe has no cut outs what so ever for it, such a ball ache!

old mount -

it was literally sat on the bottom so imagine that flat on the bottom that's like 10mm lower so that wouldntve helped the angle on the shafts either

so, car drives spot on, better than ever, feels so nice and tight and just awesome after not driving it for 10days!

random pics -

 

[jamie rigby]

my upper gearbox mount was cracked so thought I may aswell change that with just doing the other mounts, just got it from the breakers as I couldn't seem to find a new one on ebay and tegiwa don't do them, swapped -

going back to the breakers to have some adjustable rear camber arms as I have a tad too much atm

done a 260mile round trip upto Teesside on Monday with my mate as he was drifting up there, I cruised at 65-85 all the way and the car did 40mpg which I was surprised at

 

[jamie rigby]

front wheel before -

after -

attacked them with some masonary acid haha, they were cream and had blobs of old brake dust on, they could really do with a respray but they wont be getting done in my ownership

done the rear wheels too after I fitted these, skunk2 adjustable rear camber arms -

noticed one of them hasn't got a locking nut but it seems rather tight I was struggling to undo that side

done the tracking at my mates with his gauges to, it was 0.3 degrees toeing out after lowering it a further 25mm when I fitted the new coilovers, now ive set it to 0.3 degrees toeing in now it feels miles better and the turn-in's immense now!


removed the piece of pipe on the filter the other day so now the velocity stacks right in the intake hose rather than a further 150mm away with the old pipe, sounds a tad louder now and will probs be better for it being abit shorter as the air has a shorter distance to travel and the intake hose isn't bent anymore either

ordered a 400x300mm piece of heatshield off ebay the otherday, came today, cut to suit -

bent it a tiny bit more since this pic, filed the edges and put some ducktape around them, fitted -

 

[jamie rigby]

Booked my first trackday for the teg for November Saturday 16th at oulton park, cant wait to get it out there!

only plans before then really are some proper oil so ive ordered 10l of MIllers CFS 10w40 and maybe get a 98spec manifold

 

[Dan@SJM]

Have you baffled the sump? Oulton park is a known killer!

 

[welshname]

Have you baffled the sump? Oulton park is a known killer!

For Teg's or cars in general? I'm pretty sure Jamie knows the track like the back of his hand by now and I'm sure he ran the fiesta without a baffled sump for ages.

 

[Dan@SJM]

For pretty much any B series.

 

[welshname]

Oh dear.

 

[imprezaworks]

Are they like the ep3's and don't have a baffled sump?

 

[Dan@SJM]

Yeh, You can buy a baffle kit from tegiwa for £25 ish when I bought one.

 

[imprezaworks]

£25??? Really. When I looked into it the kit was £75 or £200 for a complete sump. Don't think tegiwa sell anything for £25 lol

 

[imprezaworks]

Booked my first trackday for the teg for November Saturday 16th at oulton park, cant wait to get it out there!

only plans before then really are some proper oil so ive ordered 10l of MIllers CFS 10w40 and maybe get a 98spec manifold

I and alot of others will be there

 

[Dan@SJM]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TEGIWA-OI...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ec267b712

 

[imprezaworks]

Fair one

 

[jamie rigby]

I ordered a baffle kit from tegiwa Saturday along with new sump gasket, exhaust manifold gasket and a stud kit just incase I have trouble removing it, theres mixed opinions for baffled sumps on these but I don't fancy paying over a grand for another engine + the faff of changing it so thought itd be best to get the kit and get a mate of a mate to weld it in for me which ill be doing hopefully weekend

my bottom end went in the zetec s years ago without a baffled sump so I don't want it happening again, I had a baffled sump in the xr2 rhys

 

[imprezaworks]

People say if you keep it a couple of mm above max on the dipstick you should be ok if you monitor it, if it were me I would do what you have done.

 

[jamie rigby]

yeh always check it inbetween sessions, ill be keeping it a tad above too just incase

 

[imprezaworks]

That was instead of the sump but hondas as I'm sure you know like a drink. Although mine didnt use a drop.

 

[jamie rigby]

new goodies -

Tegiwa Baffled plate kit
Genuine Sump gasket
Tegiwa 2.5'' adjustable de-cat
New Donut washer
New triple layer Manifold Gasket
Manifold stud kit
Mongoose 2.25'' Exhaust system

so... Remus vs Mongoose backbox's -

centre sections -

you can see how much better mongoose is, didn't like the oem centre section and how it was adapted for the 2'' pipe for the remus backbox

fitted the system and it lined up perfectly on the hangers and the cutout in the bumper...

not a huge fan of large tips but I think it suits it/fits so well I might leave it...

decat fitted -

started it up and its boomey on start up as with these the revs start high at 1750rpm and as they warm up it lowers obv, sounds the same at 900rpm, sounds nice and raspy when I revved it, didn't take it out for a drive tho I just checked for leaks and jacked it up ready to drain the oil...

drained the oil, removed the exhaust manifold without any problems then removed the sump and spent nearly an hour removing the old gasket and cleaning all the oil out of it ready for a mate of a mate to weld in the plate for me tomorrow

new stud kit fitted and gasket ready to be squoze -

more tomorrow!

 

[jamie rigby]

mate welded in the baffle plates in for me tis morning -

sump and manifold re-fitted -

most amount ive spent on oil before -

random pic -

been on a drive tonight gave it a good run, since fitting the decat the smoke is more pronounced now when in vtec but im keen with checking my oil so hopefully it wont get any worse, the exhaust sounds great really raspy and not too loud, going to change that tip sometime this week

I also got bad brake fade twice with the yellow stuffs so ill probs be looking into Pajid Blue pads as they don't make DS2500's for these mg/accord/primera/almera calipers , will have to email the company and complain about these or maybe get some money off another better set of pads, we'll see