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172 Clutch Cable too Short?

Illianish

ClioSport Club Member
Car  Clio 172 PH II
Hello,

Need crowd wisdom help here. Completely puzzled.

Spent two evenings trying to figure it! There's going to be a long read, PLEASE bear with me.



Problem:

Can't fit the new clutch cable after flywheel, clutch kit + release bearing replacement.

No matter what I try the cable seems to be too short:

1. Can't be seated properly on the fork gearbox side - not enough slack on the cable to put the rubber grommet and the metal cone at the far side. [See pics]

2. Even without the rubber grommet (cone only) at gearbox side , when the cabin side cable connected to the pedal - the clutch pedal remains super high, well above the brake and gas pedals .I think the clutch would not work properly. [See pics]



What I tried with no luck:

1. Reset the pedal clutch cable adjustment ratchet - even in position zero (maximum slack on the cable) cable length is not enough to seat the gearbox side properly ( cone + grommet at the far side of the fork)

As soon as the ratchet is released, the pedal just clicks all the way up to its high position [see pics].

The pedal was also high, before I did the clutch kit, replaced clutch cable, leads me to think that the issue is not with the new parts ..

Where do you think might be the problem?


1. Wrong Clutch cable ( mine is the correct RPD, left hand drive SKU)
2. Clutch pedal assembly- the ratchet, limiter etc
3. Messed up fork and release bearing when refitteed the box?
 

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Watched a few YT videos, I think I am missing that plastic bit that supposedly limits the pedal height and should fix that issue for me
1000229017.webp


However,
The cable is still too short too reach all the way on to the fork..
Or should this part somehow solve that too?
 
Better picture of the fork side cable situation - I can't get that bottom rubber grommet and steel cap on the far side of the fork together with a cone:

1000228730.webp


Does it mean the cable is too short? Or I am not doing it right? Or the fork is misplaced inside the bellhousing? 🤯
 
8200741825 is correct.

How are you routing your cable?
Exactly like it was before:
on the body pillar circle clips, into the cabin just underneath the master cylinder and into the cabin.
The cable is not pinched, it moves freely, just appears to be a centimeter short..
1000229336.webp


1000228705.webp
 
Have you measured the old/new cables next to each other, pull the pedal all the way up and pull harder 😂 can only be the ratchet or wrong routing if cable is same as removed
 
How hard are you pulling the cable through?

Take it off the clips and just connect it and see if it works
Tried from both ends( disconnect and pull on) even with cabin ratchet on Max slack ( all the way down towards the floor) - a centimeter too short..
Can put only the metal end cone on the far fork side, not enough length to put in the rubber grommet
Pulled hard by hand.
Tried disconnecting from clips.
Didn't work(
 
Have you measured the old/new cables next to each other, pull the pedal all the way up and pull harder 😂 can only be the ratchet or wrong routing if cable is same as removed
Compared the cables, look pretty similar. The old one has all the rubber bits squashed/compressed so I guess that freed up that miaaing centimeter of cable length and allowed it allowed it to go on on the fork.

The only solution i can think of is trim that rubber bush on the new cable to allow this to somehow slide on the fork.

But that would pull the fork to the extreme tight position.

Would this allow the clutch to operate normally?
 
Can it be the fork/release bearing within the bellhousing that I messed up when putting the box back?

See GIF -Ill re-upload, is that range of fork travel normal, anything seems off?
 

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Last edited:
Fork Movement video:
Does this look right ? Range of motion, etc?
 
Pull cable on then reset the ratchet when fitted, ratchet will be fully adjusted currently
Tried, not enough length(
When the box end fitted on the fork and cabin side adjuster pulled all the way back with the pedal return spring removed ( max slack ) the cable is about a centimeter short to go on the pedal attachment point (((
That's the issue.
 
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Uh-oh, last thing I want to do is dropping the box again...
Looking at the fork movement vid above, anything odd popped to your eye?

When I connected the clutch cable ( without the rubber grommet on the far fork side) , I gave the clurch pedal a few pumps, and although the pedal was extremely high, it felt normal.
Smooth movement, no excessive resistance etc.

I guess what I am asking - Do I really need to drop the box, and If I do, what should I look for?
 
Another thought, what if I pull the box back on the locating pins, create the slack on the cable, the seat the gearbox and bolt it down?
Can this work?
Anyone has the bellhousing to block torque specs?
 
Another thought, what if I pull the box back on the locating pins, create the slack on the cable, the seat the gearbox and bolt it down?
Can this work?
Anyone has the bellhousing to block torque specs?

No need to do this/not necessary.

I would personally use a lever to move clutch arm, fit cable and reset ratchet. They usually require a bit of a pull
 
No need to do this/not necessary.

I would personally use a lever to move clutch arm, fit cable and reset ratchet. They usually require a bit of a pull
Afraid to break smth, you suggest using a lever to pull the fork to the right (as if the clutch pedal is pressed) to put the end of the cable in it? Did I understand correctly?

If I do that and then bolt everything down, wouldn't that cause clutch slippage as if the pedal was slightly depressed all the time

What if I just don't hook the rubber grommet on the far side of the fork? Is that a major issue?
 
1784202905146.webp


Based on the direction of the teeth, the ratchet mechanism looks like its a full extension? And the locking tabs should be where the red line is?

As @Brigsy says it's self adjusting, so if you can get the cable on it should adjust itself to match (assuming the clutch has been installed correctly)
 
Afraid to break smth, you suggest using a lever to pull the fork to the right (as if the clutch pedal is pressed) to put the end of the cable in it? Did I understand correctly?

If I do that and then bolt everything down, wouldn't that cause clutch slippage as if the pedal was slightly depressed all the time

What if I just don't hook the rubber grommet on the far side of the fork? Is that a major issue?

Yes lever on fork then with cable fitted reset ratchet on pedal
 
View attachment 1795636

Based on the direction of the teeth, the ratchet mechanism looks like its a full extension? And the locking tabs should be where the red line is?

As @Brigsy says it's self adjusting, so if you can get the cable on it should adjust itself to match (assuming the clutch has been installed correctly)
Correct, but even in that position (all the way back -max slack) there is not enough length on the cable to hook it on to the pedal (when it is attached as it should to the gearbox side fork)

So how critical for clutch operation is that rubber grommet to be on the far side of the fork? I'm ready to give up on it, if it's not a biggie.

Hell, Im ready to set that French shitbox on 🔥 !!! )
 
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