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Coolantgate

Almost there, thank you gents.
 

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Afternoon people

Matrix hooked up now, didn't lose much coolant in the process. Understand the system wants bleeding & topping up but unsure where bleed screws are located.

Is it just the 1 screw located on thermostat or is there a second?

Cheers
 
I believe there are technically two bleed screws.

One by the thermostat and another on a heater matrix pipe in the engine bay.

My system had been dry for a while and it bled very easily. I jacked the front of the car up so engine bay was highest point of car, you don't need much. I believe I ran the engine as I filled the expansion tank with the thermostat bleed screw open and the heater set to full heat (fan low).

Once I had a steady stream of coolant coming out of the bleed nipple I tightened the bleed screw, put expansion cap on and drove the car round the block, once back I parked on a slight hill, let everything cool off, ran engine, undid bleed screw and topped up coolant to remove any trapped air.

Compared to other cars it bled easily.
 
I believe there are technically two bleed screws.

One by the thermostat and another on a heater matrix pipe in the engine bay.

My system had been dry for a while and it bled very easily. I jacked the front of the car up so engine bay was highest point of car, you don't need much. I believe I ran the engine as I filled the expansion tank with the thermostat bleed screw open and the heater set to full heat (fan low).

Once I had a steady stream of coolant coming out of the bleed nipple I tightened the bleed screw, put expansion cap on and drove the car round the block, once back I parked on a slight hill, let everything cool off, ran engine, undid bleed screw and topped up coolant to remove any trapped air.

Compared to other cars it bled easily.
Sci-Fi Movie GIF
 
Just a tip for anyone that comes across this in future that don't have the fancy pliers Brigsy linked

The hose connections that go to the heater matrix, if you push the connector towards the bulkhead, push the 2 button tabs in and pull back they come off a bit easier. You still need the gripstrength of Harvey, but it's doable
 
Im pretty sure these have a heater bypass valve so its important that you set heat to full on. and imo important that you get the front of the car up in the air.

Checked pictures and agree there only one bleed screw

View attachment 1795721

I think coolant is constantly flowing through them mate, so having heaters on full is not really needed (although good to know it's getting hot).

Heat in the cabin will be done by the blend flap.
 
@Brigsy car's parked leaning slightly to the left can I do it on there? got no choice like lol still shaking at the thought of it surprised I've come this far lol
Just the one bleed screw on mk2, on the thermostat housing.

Fill coolant bottle until a steady stream comes out. Then run the car until low stage fan kicks in (have AC off otherwise it'll be on from the start).
Is this with car running & airbox off?
 
It is 1000% fine with the engine running.

They say that because they don't want people opening the bleed valve with a pressurised system.

Engine cold, open the bleed valve, fill up with water, run the engine, top up water, close bleed valve then run up to temp..... drive.... do it again.

Done. As said, I have done this from a 100% empty bone dry system and it was perfect. In fact I run the engine on pretty much every car do coolant on unless I use a vac bleeding kit.
 
I always bleed stat housing from cold/before running. You will hear the matrix fill / coolant rush in on first start.

Never ran it at 2500rpm, i just take it round the block until thermostat opens, let it cool a little then top up coolant.

I think they say dont remove the bleed screw when running to save any burns. Its all good undoing it but the rush of coolant/steam and hot as fcuk coolant makes it hard to get it back in. Very unpleasant with gloves on from experience
 
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