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Your local Renault garage will loan you the tool if they think your decent. Iv been offered the loan of tools in the past.
Think a Cup is a bit easier to do than a full phat 172 but unless you know what your doing i wouldnt attempt it.
Lots of stories on here of non Renault dealers not setting the timing up right
Think a Cup is a bit easier to do than a full phat 172 but unless you know what your doing i wouldnt attempt it.
Lots of stories on here of non Renault dealers not setting the timing up right
Thats ok I'm a Mechanical Engineer to trade and my last car was a Fiat Coupe 20VT and i doubt its as difficult as that. 
Thanks for the advice I'll scrub up, put on my best clothes and head down to my local Renault garage to see if they'll loan me it.
Cheers
Will
Any idea of the price of the belt/tensioners?
Thanks for the advice I'll scrub up, put on my best clothes and head down to my local Renault garage to see if they'll loan me it.Cheers
Will
Any idea of the price of the belt/tensioners?
Its not difficult just very very fiddly as you've got 1.5-2 inch of room to do everything in thats all, forget about torquing anything up as you just won't get a torque wrench in there.
Tools can be hard for circa 50 notes off the net and are essential, the cambelt kit is £140 or so trade off the top of my head. Don't forget the core plugs for the end of the head and the upper/lower inlet gasket if you want to do it 100%.
Tools can be hard for circa 50 notes off the net and are essential, the cambelt kit is £140 or so trade off the top of my head. Don't forget the core plugs for the end of the head and the upper/lower inlet gasket if you want to do it 100%.
ITB'd MK1
yes it does. you have to take the plenum off to get to the blanking plugs on the end of the cams to get the locking tool in. dont necessarily need a new gasket obviously, they're normally fine.
Need the plugs out to turn the engine over too which requires the upper inlet off, you can get away with doing the gasket as I changed my plugs previously without changing it and it was fine was just saying that if you wanted to be 100% perfect you should change it. And from a renault tech thats a bit worrying.
The tools aren't "essential" unless you remove the cam pulleys.
You can mark the cam pulleys against the head for position and lock the crank with an 8mm drill bit/drift.
I'll get abuse for saying it but it's true. No one has ever given me a decent reason why it's not. This also means you can leave the plenum on and not remove the core plugs. Although I seem to remember I removed the plenum in the end for access.
The problem is that the pulleys are all held in place by friction from the bolt holding them on rather than a woodruff key.
Do you have the manual?
http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf
You can mark the cam pulleys against the head for position and lock the crank with an 8mm drill bit/drift.
I'll get abuse for saying it but it's true. No one has ever given me a decent reason why it's not. This also means you can leave the plenum on and not remove the core plugs. Although I seem to remember I removed the plenum in the end for access.
The problem is that the pulleys are all held in place by friction from the bolt holding them on rather than a woodruff key.
Do you have the manual?
http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf
Mark is right just lock the crank at TDC mark the pulleys before removing old belt them fit the new belt & save you £15 for the plastic plugs at the other end of the cams. Remember you to raise & lower the engine with the jack to access the bolts on the cover.
Make sure you buy the kits for both cam & aux belt as the pulleys are prone for collapse on these motors if you don't replace them.
Make sure you buy the kits for both cam & aux belt as the pulleys are prone for collapse on these motors if you don't replace them.
