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I take it I'm mixing them up with a diode?
...although you can get bi-directional diodes sometimes just to confuse things
182 Cup
Speaking of resistors...
My electronics friend had a look at the set up for me tonight, he wasn't 100% on the circuit boards so wanted to see what was on the back of them, so out they came. The green is the R/O switch, the red is the +/- switch...
Both circuits are different and they appear to have resitors in them. He's pretty sure that he can make it happen, but he's going back to have a think before we move things forward. Keep you posted.
My electronics friend had a look at the set up for me tonight, he wasn't 100% on the circuit boards so wanted to see what was on the back of them, so out they came. The green is the R/O switch, the red is the +/- switch...
Both circuits are different and they appear to have resitors in them. He's pretty sure that he can make it happen, but he's going back to have a think before we move things forward. Keep you posted.
Ahh all the resistors are doing is pulling the voltage down to ground it seems. They are different because the ecu will be looking for different voltages to. The R/O is like an on/off yes?? Hence why that one shares the same value resistor.
The Red one has different values as id imagine the ecu take below 6v for speed up and over 6v for speed down (or something like that)
The thing that interests me is on the bottom picture above... all of the holes and the 2 vias (smaller holes) have a track on them which looks like it goes around the board to the other side..but they dont! Where do they go? In fact its the same on the green pcb.
The Red one has different values as id imagine the ecu take below 6v for speed up and over 6v for speed down (or something like that)
The thing that interests me is on the bottom picture above... all of the holes and the 2 vias (smaller holes) have a track on them which looks like it goes around the board to the other side..but they dont! Where do they go? In fact its the same on the green pcb.
My trusty lil 182 :)
Be interested to see the outcome of yours before i start wiring stuff in and hopng for the best!
It's a sparco wheel, 320mm i think just sprayed up to match the rest of the car
Any updates dude?
I know its of no use now but I found some toher switches
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/push-button-red--chrome--pbswrc-1426-p.asp
I know its of no use now but I found some toher switches
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/push-button-red--chrome--pbswrc-1426-p.asp
On a serious note if you wanted to send me the stuff id whack it all together for you? Wont charge you anything for it.
i've still not got my old wheel off
Aye still stands
Just drop me a PM.
RB 182
Any updates?
182 Cup
Slacker
Indeed. And now I think I may have an even lazier plan. It goes a little like this...
Take the large OE unit...
Trim the body and the switch cover to make it more compact...
Cut a groove for the wires to sit in, and file down a circular section to make it flush...
And mount to the rear of the wheel...
Then all I'd have to do it mark the front of the wheel with decals so I know what the buttons lurking behind actually do.
I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be seen at all when in the driver's seat. The only downside is that they won't be in very easy reach, but for the amount of times they are used I don't see that as an issue.
Now all I need is a good way of attaching the plastic mounts to the metal wheel. I'm thinking the only option would be to bond it with some sort of adhesive?
182 Cup
Will that hold plastic? I was looking at the 3M product selector -
http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/Tapes-and-Adhesives/Home/TapesAdhesives/ProductFinder/
And it came up with EPX acrylic adhesive? If I go with non-solvent based, will it mean the plastic has no chance of disolving?
I've got no clue when it comes to glue.
http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/Tapes-and-Adhesives/Home/TapesAdhesives/ProductFinder/
And it came up with EPX acrylic adhesive? If I go with non-solvent based, will it mean the plastic has no chance of disolving?
I've got no clue when it comes to glue.
182 Cup
It's getting closer. I've been off sick(ish) and therefore there is progress.
The brackets have been re-shaped:
And it's been trial fitted for positioning behind the wheel:
Now all I need is some epoxy adhesive (I think), some electrical tape to tidy up the wires, some decals made up (post-it notes will make do in the mean time!) and to remove the wheel for fitting.
Before I mount it permanently I'll be testing all the functions again on the road. So maybe this could be up and running in a week or so (hangovers dependant).
The brackets have been re-shaped:
And it's been trial fitted for positioning behind the wheel:
Now all I need is some epoxy adhesive (I think), some electrical tape to tidy up the wires, some decals made up (post-it notes will make do in the mean time!) and to remove the wheel for fitting.
Before I mount it permanently I'll be testing all the functions again on the road. So maybe this could be up and running in a week or so (hangovers dependant).
RB 182
What makes contact with the pcb? does the switch just have an in-built spring mechanism each end to self level?
I was thinking about this the other day... might knock something up on CAD and then get it prototyped. Wouldn't cost much as it's a small lightweight component!
I was thinking about this the other day... might knock something up on CAD and then get it prototyped. Wouldn't cost much as it's a small lightweight component!
182 Cup
The little grey rubber membraine makes contact with the PCB and also acts as the spring mechanism, the small black arms are to maintain position. See pics...
Not entirely true about the grey membrane bit (well in a way iit is!)
Inside the grey switch membrane is a black conductive disk (cant remember what its made of!) that when pressed down onto the pcb makes the contact and is picked up by the ecu.
Like you knew though you can use any form of switch in place of those ones providing its a momentary switch. You could knock that whole set-up into something easily...you just have to use the correct resistors ,as each signal is different.
Interestingly after re-looking at the pics with the resistors showing I think I could draw up a schematic for this in about 5minutes when I have time/can be arsed! People could use and make there own??
Although I would like to get my hands on the whole loom so I could be sure of whats going on.
Inside the grey switch membrane is a black conductive disk (cant remember what its made of!) that when pressed down onto the pcb makes the contact and is picked up by the ecu.
Like you knew though you can use any form of switch in place of those ones providing its a momentary switch. You could knock that whole set-up into something easily...you just have to use the correct resistors ,as each signal is different.
Interestingly after re-looking at the pics with the resistors showing I think I could draw up a schematic for this in about 5minutes when I have time/can be arsed! People could use and make there own??
Although I would like to get my hands on the whole loom so I could be sure of whats going on.
RB 182
Any reason why a standard push button cannot be used on the front of the wheel with this behind it?
Could simply unscrew the wiring end of the push button and stick this "conductive disk" on (if needed). Then simple case of designing a housing that will hold the pcb onto the back of the wheel and directly under the two swithces?
Would be interested to see what richy22 could do, so make some time please
Could simply unscrew the wiring end of the push button and stick this "conductive disk" on (if needed). Then simple case of designing a housing that will hold the pcb onto the back of the wheel and directly under the two swithces?
Would be interested to see what richy22 could do, so make some time please
Have a read back through the thread...we found some half decent "momentary switches" which is what you need. You cant use a SPST type switch it HAS to be a momentary one.
Just a case of finding the right switch for a decent price really!
Or.... design a housing as you say and use all the guts membrane etc.. IN fact I just realized I got something almost perfect for this I saw at work the other day
Just a case of finding the right switch for a decent price really!
Or.... design a housing as you say and use all the guts membrane etc.. IN fact I just realized I got something almost perfect for this I saw at work the other day
RB 182
Got some of these in the post today thanks to _Nero_
I don't see any reason why you cant solder a normal push buttons onto each half of the contact pad (on the pcb)? It's simply a connection from the rubber disc that makes them work after all...
Anyway, will take it into work tomorrow and see what the others say.
I don't see any reason why you cant solder a normal push buttons onto each half of the contact pad (on the pcb)? It's simply a connection from the rubber disc that makes them work after all...
Anyway, will take it into work tomorrow and see what the others say.
Did this project ever get finished?
CLIO 182
Argh such an annoying end to a great thread!!! Conclusion = sack of cruise control and live without it lol was soon keen on having them fitted to an aftermarket wheel is it really worth it? Loved the idea of hiding em behind the wheel!! Great idea!!!
bozothenutter
ClioSport Club Member
won't drilling the spoken weaken them? (ie in case of a crash)
other than that looks like a good mod to do on my car, I need the weheel to come towards me just a little to get the driving position perfect. (any idea how much a the mount brings the weheel out?)
other than that looks like a good mod to do on my car, I need the weheel to come towards me just a little to get the driving position perfect. (any idea how much a the mount brings the weheel out?)
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
yep indeed very easy, did mine today, for a different way that ive not seen if you dont mind pulling apart your original switches you can get it to work easily and dont have to go hunting resistors
