Running in oil advise

[scotty2hotty81]

For when my low comp engine is finally done il be wanting to use a running in oil, a friend of mine has mentioned a Lucas bedding in oil that contains copper? :-/ can't seem to find anything on it, any advise as to what's best to use? Or should I just go for a dirty cheap mineral? F4r engine, forged rods, low comp wossner pistons and total seal piston rings.

 

[bmh.01]

dirty cheap mineral?

Bingo.

And replace several times.

 

[Meek_racing]

Bingo.

And replace several times.

Why several times? I thought you run the oil to bed the engine in, then put the good stuff in?

 

[Laine_16v]

i ran my engine in on 10w-40 mineal oil. 100 miles, changed oil for more mineral, ran for another 500. Then swtiched to a fully synthetic.

Make sure you load the rings well (this is key), but no excessive revs as friction levels will be high.

 

[Coops Mk1]

ai, lots of build to 4k max then let off to load up the rings

mineral oil will be fine, I used it for 400 miles on first low comp build and it was fine for 14k and rings were still mint when I rebuilt....so much so I re-used them! lol!

 

[scotty2hotty81]

Cool, dirty cheap mineral it is then, thanks guys

 

[DannyR]

Millers do a specific running in oil.

 

[scotty2hotty81]

I just found that actually, £22.95 5ltr

 

[DannyR]

Mates just used it on his Evo. You can buy 25 litres for about £120.

5 to flush through
5 for 50 miles
5 for 250 miles
5 for 250 miles
5 for 500 miles

 

[JHead]

i worked at scholar engines for a bit, and to run an engine in just use cheap stuff because its not worth wasting money. simples

 

[Dr HMS Derv Destroyer]

I used cleaner oil when I rebuilt the DCI engine. Cheap s**t I knw. But it's now sweet as a nut running on mobile 1 0w/40

 

[Dan519]

Mates just used it on his Evo. You can buy 25 litres for about £120.

5 to flush through
5 for 50 miles
5 for 250 miles
5 for 250 miles
5 for 500 miles

you must be joking!!! I used to use Motorway mineral oil for running in. £2.99 for 4.5 litres. First change after 20-50 miles to get any assembly lubes and contamination out. another 50-100 miles on the same, giving it lots of use and using engine braking as much as possible, then onto the good stuff. it doesn't take 1000 miles to run in an engine, you can do it in about an hour on a dyno. softer you drive it the longer it takes.

 

[DannyR]

Meh it works, there's so many different "right" ways of running in an engine so it hardly matters.

Was just giving my opinion of one way.

 

[Dan519]

refering to the cost mostly. keep it as cheap as possible. expensive running in oil is throwing money away

 

[Laine_16v]

Just use mineral!

 

[Martin.]

Bit of a bump.

But can anyone give me a link for this lovely cheap mineral oil please

 

[Dr HMS Derv Destroyer]

Go your local factors ad get some

 

[Martin.]

Go your local factors ad get some

local factors add?

 

[Dr HMS Derv Destroyer]

'And ' sorry iPad error haha

 

[Dan@SJM]

Sod going to the motor factors. asda/Tesco etc.

 

[Dr HMS Derv Destroyer]

We'll depends how we you know your motor factors

BnQ got some mineral oil on ATM

 

[Chip-mk1]

I use cheap mineral oil, and I only do a couple dozen miles then pull it out and put another lot in, to get rid of any tiny bits of swarf, then a few hundred more miles increasing the load as I go, then onto the decent stuff, then a few hundred miles of using it hard but ot quite revving it out.