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K tec Stud Conversion

Should be taking delivery of the stud conversion from ktec, just checked on there site and can't see anywhere a fitting guide... i know that they just screw in with a bit of locktight on them but do i need to torque them up to a certain amount? do i need to leave them stand for a bit before i put the wheels on? Hopefully all the info i need will come with them but if anyone know's the answer that'll be great.
 
Clean the internal threads with brake cleaner and stuffing a cloth down the holes best you can. Then apply loctite to the studs and nip them up by hand. They don't need to be mega tight.
 
Just fitted the driver side back four, done the other side but could only get three of them in? the one hole it goes in and stops after a few threads... now it does this when i put a bolt in as well but then i put the bar on 1 or 2 turns and it comes nice and loose again to do up by hand. Do i need to re-tap it? i've cleaned as much as i can with a rag and brake cleaner... any help would be great.

 
Try a wheel bolt in and out a couple of times to see if it cleans it up, if not then yes retap it.
 
Cool stuff :)

They are a great upgrade, but make sure you check the wheel nuts reguarly for tigthness if using on track, especially after your first session.
 
I bought some red studs but read add wrong and got nuts. .. Contemplating this conversion now or sell them on
 
No,these are the ones i've got http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=4784&appid=2 can't find the thread now but when i was doing some searching on the conversion there was a lot of bad stuff about buying cheap ones. Not worth risking with cheap ones, especially when the wheels are the only point of contact to the ground.

I need to get some of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-RENAUL...heels_tyre_Trims_Trims_ET&hash=item20d31d89cb as my oz's that came off a seat is catching on the brake pad which if you look closely at the bottom picture on the left you can see the a shiny bit which is where my wheels were hitting. My Cup wheels fit on as normal though so a nice 10mm spacer should sort that out.
 
they could well be good i know next to nothing about them, i came across a few threads saying that the cheap ones can't handle track days and that they end up stretching and coming loose. I wouldn't say it's just k tax as the pm ones are around 130ish and the ones from demon tweeks are around the same.

 
£30 ones will be s**te, I don't actually know if the ktec ones are good quality or not though so can't comment there.
 
The PMS ones have a allen key recces in the ends to aid in removal/tightening up, the KTEC ones dont, also the ens of the PMS ones are bullet tipped. The PMS ones work fine with 16mm spacers.

Ktec ones are bullet tipped too. The ktec ones work with 12mm spacers but with bolt to hub spacers this is irreverent anyway.

The eBay jobs just don't look good quality IMO.
 
Are they worth the extra £50 over the ktec stud kit do you think?

unlikely from looking at the link but have never tried the ktec ones, on paper though other than being slightly more awkward to fit (and it is only slight, just lock two nuts on) they look equivalent to me.
 
Ran the A I Tech studs at Oulton on Wed - none of them untorqued and have the option of an M12*1.25 output instead of 1.5. They're decent IMO.
 
Ran the A I Tech studs at Oulton on Wed - none of them untorqued and have the option of an M12*1.25 output instead of 1.5. They're decent IMO.

Is that what the ktec ones are then? Same as Tweeks sell?
If so I know a few people who have used them and been happy.
 
Not sure Si, they do look similar. Seems odd they don't offer the three sizes if it is AI Tech though.

68mm for the front hub if youre not using spacers and 86mm for the front for 'up to' a 25mm spacer and the rear hub if youre running 34mm length nuts.

Imagine the 100mm would jut beyond the wheel face, but hey this is clichésport where folk will run 50cm spacers just to look racecar... :)

If they are the same it just looks like they've lobbed in a cheapo set of 25mm length nuts and a bottle of thread lock as the A I ally nuts are about £6 each. They do steel ones too at about £4 from memory.
 
Im not a fan of the ally nuts, too easy to damage for such a safety vital component IMHO

I realise its unsprung weight, but I will take the penalty for steel thanks!
 
Would it be as much of an issue on 1.25 pitch? Totally agree on a coarser pitch.

That said i've stuck with the steel Rsport nuts as they were all still pretty snug.

Defo worth getting a cordless impact wrench for the 1.25 pitch. Such a ball ache winding them on/off by hand! :banghead:
 
If they are carefully fitted and you life them then im sure its not an issue, but unless you are in very competitive racing it seems a dangerous place to be looking for weight saving IMHO
 
Yep, can see where you're coming from. :)

That said even with the steel nuts, Rsport suggest the studs are replaced each season as a precautionary measure to counter any stretch that may have weakened them.
 
I cant personally afford to life them quite that tightly, but I can see why they would cover their backs.
 
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