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Curiously the same reinforcement isn't present on the passenger side though? (Unless I'm seriously blind) Perhaps it's a market driven thing & only required on the side where you put a big hole in the BIW for servo?

For a start he only counts from when the speedo moves, and the speedo starts at 10mph.... So they've measured the 10-60 time lol. Then they've judged 60mph A) from a speedo not GPS etc and B) at an obscure angle with some parallax error. I hate the internet & pub facts

Nope just pull harder. 10 years of corrosion and speedbumps/potholes will have absolutely rammed them on, but no they're not welded on or anything. As for reusing, just inspect them for large cracks or tears particularly on the top and bottom surface (shine a torch up the dust cover).

It's the calliper hitting the wheel. Not the pads hitting... whatever you think the pad can hit.

Genuinely, how does that work? The wheel is a circle and the wheel bearing that it's attached to is in the centre of that circle. The calliper is placed relative to the wheel bearing, not relative to the balljoint. You could put the balljoint anywhere and it would have no impact on calliper...

The majority of your story makes it sound like the cat/manifold joint not the olive tbh. You said he said "infront of the cat" but you're not sure if he said "olive" or not? Olive joints are really common and any exhaust place would have them in stock. Really easy to fit and if you were having...

Swap the front wheels right to left. If the problem swaps side then it's tolerance/damage in the wheel (which you can fix by swapping with an assumed-good rear wheel). If the problem stays on the same side then it's tolerance stack up or damage on the hubs/brackets/callipers.

No, Brembo HC (for 172/182)

As above. One is made to be quiet, efficient & work safely without requiring any care/maintanence in everything from torrential rain and 5 degrees to bone dry and 30 degrees. The other is made solely to do one thing, whilst offering a basic level of usability. On track the difference is huge...

26 is non-sport Unlike Renparts to get something wrong though.

Might not bother some, but it'd be a shame if someone less willing to dremel their chassis bought a straight bit of hose without knowing...

That ^^^^^ Organisers ultimately need you to be there so take a fair & pragmatic approach. Long term I'd stick a centre silencer or new backbox on. F*** changing exhausts every trackday just for 2 BHP extra on the road/louder tracks inbetween. If you must go all Motorsport-esque, keep the loud...

As above with something to aid leverage it really doesn't end up being much of a struggle. I'd stick with option one as the ARB bracket is far, far more difficult to line up/get back on...

Very interesting! Was intrigued as to where you'd found any usable package space but the balljoint extenders are obviously a godsend for wishbone/driveshaft clearance at that sort of ride height. Nice use of (IIRC) existing bracketry on the subframe too. Have you had the ARB rated compared to...

That was well spotted! They're serving their occasional TD purpose perfectly adequately. Saw you in Texaco (?) & McDonalds too but was on road wheels. Thought it was odd you weren't filling up in Tesco but the reason soon became clear to me!

Pics of ARB?

Whack Photoview360 out for the final pics. CS will love that :smile:

Your numbers don't work. Because you can buy a Clio for a few hundred quid, and prep it for 2k your idea of making the money back over 3 weekends (£666 profit per weekend) by it's very nature means your "customer" only has to do 3/4 races and they'd financially already be better off...

TBH it sounds like you've already found the least-worst damper setting for the unique combo of you & your car/roads/usage/preferences and bouncing problem. Is the bouncing in a straight line or just corners? Have a play with rear damping if it's in a straight line. The ratio of things that...

Springs don't give you bump steer, rappers do... wait what Overly stiff springs or dampers give you twitchyness. Poor suspension geometry gives you bumpsteer. Messing with the suspension and not checking alignment can give very err "responsive" amounts of toe. If it is genuine geometry-induced...

TBH you can try the DS2500 fairly financially risk free. If they don't squeal then for the odd track day, great. If they do squeal then you'll have no problem flogging them on here for strong money if they've got meat left on them. As a Plan B have you considered swapping pads out as you...

Did you ever take any more pictures of the internals? Would be very interested in seeing what £500 of internals gets you.

JP & Gus doing rear bushes for everyone at the next meet then...! You don't need a dash bar. Dash can mount off of tabs welded to the cage & firewall. Steering column is self supporting.

They're called vortex generators. Intentionally creates spirals of turbulent air which "tumble" downwards, keeping the airflow "tight" to the window/boot profile rather than separating off of the car. Reduces drag. One of those lovely aerodynamic phenomenons where doing something normally...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Screw-Thread-Pitch-Size-Internal-External-Gauge-Measuring-Tool-New-/161894838797?hash=item25b1af320d:g:FRsAAOSwgyxWUaxo One of my favourite things I've ever bought. Unfortunately it's at work otherwise I'd go and use it.

5 years or 72,000 miles, whichever is soonest. You have done 30,000 miles, which is less than 72,000. So it does not need to be done based on mileage. 2009 was 7 years ago, which is longer than 5 years. So it does need to be done based on age. "Whichever is soonest" means whichever milestone...

R888R because it's interesting and you'll learn something new 1st hand. The DZ03 is a known quantity, pretty much the fastest semi slick available available in the size in terms of single lap pace. Do a Google search to make sure R888r aren't horrific, then be a guinea pig, go on ;)

I think the most confusing bit of that is not boxing at the end of the outlap...

Not an RS01. Disappointed. :grin:

😂:smile: