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You'll lose audio to the rear speakers, using the signal to those as your "sub out".
Speaker-level input is available on a lot of subs and amps, which you then fettle to adjust tone.
Honestly though, you'd be better off with the cheapest piece of LED-riddled tat from Halfords than persevering...
Just go buy a PC then.
And yes, companies want people's money, is that really a big surprise to anyone? I'm sure once Oxfam breaks into the console gaming market there'll be a change in how the sector goes about making their billions, but until then, it wont be changing fast
How dare they have legitimate business reasons for not letting any old Chinese $5 tat connect to their systems.
I'm going to write to my MP about it and tell them that upwards of 4 people are disgusted about how the world works.
Well, it is a simulation.
The alternative would be to let you flick from 5th to 2nd, but then retire the car with a bunch of holes in the engine block.
Because, much like Apple products, people WILL pay.
What's the alternative? A cheap one, or just use a pad? How are you going to be the big man on an internet forum like that?
Alternative?
Communism
See, I just can't waste my eyeballs on looking at A-pillars when there's an apex I'm trying to clip.
To me, the cockpit view is only a short step away from the follow-cam and I have no idea how people can drive like that.
Again, if I had Vive power, I'd probably think differently.
Who else actually uses "in cockpit" view, especially when you're using a wheel?
I can't stand it, myself, never have.
Either it's front-bumper cam or roof-cam for me.
For VR I'd imagine the in-cockpit view makes sense, but otherwise why waste screen space on a dashboard and wheel....especially...
Can't do that, the road is used for the straw-burning plant and all the other sites on the industrial zone.
But there is a straight piece of private road, and no site security, so it will always be a place to show off quite how sik your stretched Nankangs look on yo's totally-doesn't-understeer...
Totally understandable.
Using the wasted space under your seats is the way forward.
Hell, if one isn't enough, you can always get 2 and put under each seat :wink:
And yes, "Active" sub means the amp is already in the box, you just need to run power, switched power and RCA's to it...
Basically, yes.
Let the door speakers and the headunits 4x50w deal with the mids/highs, let the "sub" (it's really more a "mid-bass" woofer than a "sub") deal with the lows it's made for.
Cheaper, more effective and more easily reversible than pouring money into the doors
Fair enough. But unless you're pouring the better part of £200 into your front speakers and amp, you're not going to notice any real improvement.
Indeed, just fiddling with the settings on your headunit will yield greater results, and costs you £0.00
But, just so we're talking about the same...
Not far removed from HERE, where all the local cool, scene, fast as fuq kids in their charges go to "race".
Or, for that matter, any given industrial estate with a straight.