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Yeah rails that the fuel tank outer bolts go into were the bit I meant, those and the triangle areas

Did you struggle to clean up the rail sections running to the rear? The one that has the spare wheel well tight up to it is really tricky to get to.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-10mm-CAP-HEAD-ALLEN-SOCKET-SCREWS-HIGH-TENSILE-12-9-ZINC-PLATED-BOLTS-/361974137921?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Those are the exact ones I bought

How does Dinitrol etc compare to Bilt Hamber range like Dynax

Looks like my old arctic blue, WJ04 GKU changed hands again around june july time. Strange it's never turned up on here

Unless you're a bolt pervert dont waste your money on genuine Renault bolts, I priced them and the nuts up at something like £65! kayfast on ebay I got the capheads etc for circa £15

I used high tensile m10 capheads with a washer to spread the load and a washer and nyloc on the underside 120mm from memory

Ive had a clio in some form since around 2002 and an RS for over 14 years. Sell it? Too many of my man hours, blood sweat and tears gone into it and I'd never get back what I've put into it over the last 3 years.

I priced up Genuine Renault bem bolts, came to over £60 from memory so I bought high tensile 10mm caphead bolts with washers and unlocks from Kayfast on Ebay for under £15

A bit late now but isnt there a bolt on bracket that someone designed to help prevent the aux belt getting into the cambelt?

I like!

I find that a lot of the reason the bumper corners don't dont pull up tight to the wing is if the under tray is pulled too far forward on the bolts, loosening and pushing it back closes the gap up.

Dead easy, I must have had mine off 4 or 5 times in the last few months. First off two 10mm bolts at the front through the bumper under tray (the bit connected to the bumper not the main under tray) into the subframe. 2x 10mm bolts under archliner into bumper bracket. 3x T20? Torx on either...

Is it possible that my radios autochanger socket isn't shutting down with the ignition off? I thought it was my Connects2 that was draining the battery but thinking about it now it was doing it with the auto changer plugged in beforehand. To add to the confusion I'm using a replacement...

Sliced the grommet, figured the compression around the grommet would keep it water tight. What a horrible job to fit though.

Or would it be stupid to put a clean slice in the side of the grommet to let the loom through?

I'm replacing the bonnet release cable on my 172, it has what I believe is the alarm loom poked through the grommet on the original cable. I'm contemplating cutting the loom and doing away with the alarm as they can be troublesome, can I literally hack through it with no consequences other than...

I have considered just doing the outers but then @frayz sticks those bloody photos up! I'd be doing it on axle stands so it's going to be a pig if I do the inner bushes, I'll get a better look at the bushes but knowing they are there and cracking bugs me.

I thinking know the answer to this question already but here goes, how easy is it to remove the front arb? Mines a bit flaky so a rub down and lick of paint wouldnt go a miss. Alternatively I could drop the outer bushes, let it dangle and spot treat it the ends which have suffered the worst.

When you say snow foam via a pump sprayer, as in a hozelock job?

I'd have lined them up with the bolt holes. On a serious note they look stunning

Beer on a Thursday! And yeah, Red Stripe?

Bumper off then pushed the grille off gently, this let's you get a long screwdriver though the small gap in the slam panel into the lock mechanism to flick it across. I did think I'd be cutting it at one point though😆

Bingo! Bonnet open

Got lucky, RPD are sending me the only cable in the UK

That's great mate! It confirms what I thought possible while looking at it tonight. Any idea what the part number for the new cable was?

I can get in between the two parts of the slam panel as in pic, then lever over like in 2nd, I hope!

I think I can get a screwdriver or something thin through from the front to lever the...lever over.

Too one looks like a mk2 to me, opening it should be easy now cheers! Hopefully RPD have a cable otherwise theres one on Ebay

Getting somewhere now, the cable is snapped so in fading light I've got the bumper off leaving the grille behind so I have better access to the release mechanism. Any idea which bit I need to lever as I have very limited access and view. Just a photo of the mechanism would do.