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My Oreca full weld in cage just needed flat plates welding to the floor. So..... The main hoop and the the 'a' pillars dont touch the ground yet you have it bolted to the rear arches? If both dont touch then surely all you need to do is lower the cage!! Take out the rear bolts, weld plates...

The car will become more twitchy on day to day driving IMO as the nose is more eager to turn in, on track I wouldn't have a Clio without one or at least a Clio which is balanced similar to what the RARB gives a fairly standard car.

Yeah the exhaust needs a little tweeking Liam, undo the u bolt underneath and spin it so its closer to the bumper. It looks like its sagged a bit.

IMO if its only to get you by untill the turbo build, flatten back that cam journal and polish it up. If the cams are alright then just put it back together with an oil change and make sure you top up oil levels in the future.

Would you recomend the 120 or 180 from your experiences? Fair enough mate it was just your comparison to R1R's which are known to melt. The 120's have held up quite well for you, I might go for them for their little extra grip. The options for 18" tyres can get quite expensive so the NS-2r's...

Im not sure how much you have or do push but IME R1R melt to pieces on the front when dry. Im going to go for the tread wear 180 on my Meg, has anyone got an idea of mileage they are getting from these or even the 120 tread wear.

From the 10 miles I have driven it I'm liking it so far. What I have noticed is the driving position is awkward but I have plans to change that. It will be getting a dose of work done in a month when I'm home. Yeah I should have warned you about that, Oreca exhausts are pretty bloody loud and...

Yeah I'm sure LiamR172 will be happy with it, I'm happy so far with his Meg :)

Well done Russ and good videos. The car is going brilliant, some less aggressive pads and your car will 'one to beat' ;)

Got a few jobs done in the last few days, just bits and pieces from using it on track and to standardise the car a little. The arch liners were fitted up again to keep things clean While doing that I found the remains of my last track day One of the CV boots had been weaping since I got...

The engines are toffy from the reading I have done, if you want anything more than a little tweek then your looking at major component upgrades. For those who have one, what like of an improvement is there with the mods David Hodson lists above, I'm guessing its not night and day?

£118 which is around what all the cheapest are doing them for anyway. So..... a bargain. I'm going to order 225's instead of the 235's the r26's run because they will be a wider tyre anyway and a £15 saving per tyre over 235's.

30% reduced anyway chi, there will be no meat on the bone at that. Not a bad price IMO. I'm happy to pay that.

Did you go for medium? I have them on the front of my Clio but can't remember what wear rating they're.

Cheers @Scott H. I was away to pull the trigger on Cazan racing, that's £100 saved with tyre leader.

Red with grey chequered flag mate Just seen the pictures, can't confirm or deny. Anyone of the engine or the box would knock him out of the (class C iirc) 2.0na class, he'll probably run slicks and compete in A2 which will be against the caterfields so 52-53 second laps :dapprove:

Realistically 20nm isn't enough IME. Think what 20nm actually feels like when your tightening it up. If you have done and undone enough bolts/nuts/studs in your days you'll know that's not enough. If you want to follow the manufacturers guidelines to the book then fire on. Since were talking...

Put the handbags away boys. FT is the torque setting that should be applied, if you have rounded the Allen key on them then you have went too far. PMS studs are good and are now available in 3 lengths and two different types of nuts. K-tec's bullet tip studs are also good for the price @Gaz-m

Torques shop on eBay

Did anyone have a tustle with Paul Bell in Nova racecar, interested to see how the clio's compare to his thing as I'll be racing him soon enough. Its around 280bhp from an XE.

A link for some of the guys asking for pictures. http://www.power-images.co.uk/gallerys/2014/car%20track/23-03-14/index.html @Andy93 I like this, not an picture you usually see at KH due to it being clockwise mostly.

Ah right seen that and ktec told him to remove the ad but did anyone take legal action on him or anyone buy it etc?

What's the brief of this thread, I know he was selling a fully forged engined car, water pump and all. What's the talk of fraud etc, I'm not going to read through 20 pages.

Lol at thinking thinking a rear ender done that. That things been barrel rolllllllling.

I can post out a bare wheel (no airbag and insert) next week for £35 posted.

I read on the KH FB page that there was a bad evo crash towards the end of the day.

Speak to Halracing on here, he'll do FG bonnets and boots for cheap. Someone might be able to help with a direct phone number.

In actual fact the rules haven't changed a great deal other than at a lot of chicanes you'll have to be tidier. The rule has always been enforced but it will be a strict 3 strike policy enforced. I have already had two black flags on TD's this year for it, they're enforcing it from top to bottom.

Haha any pics of the evo that had the bad smash? That lump of mud at the hairpin is a ramp waiting to be used.

Good pics John. Its crazy they're doing TD's with all that work going on, it bodes well for racing this year down into the hairpin.