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Used ls932 On pretty much all the F series Renaults I’ve worked on. No issues. Then again I’ve used a fair few Bosch filters

At this rate , as I don’t want to miss another year , the vivaro is getting tracked @DaveDreads best fit a tow bar to the clio …. 🤣

That is going to be a c**t to change as I bet the tensioner will now be siezed 🤣

Also do as the chap above said , get another decent fuel filter , and with your old one , cut it open without making to much mess and see if it’s full of metal filling from a failing pump

That nozzle has blown down to some sort of wear or extreme heat expansion , common enough on diesels, can sometimes cause hard starts or rough running due to the injection needle not Seating fully in the nozzle, and the nozzle holes not spraying the correct pattern. yes the injectors can be...

That sounds to me like a bad injector. Leak off might not show much but getting injectors tested will give you a better idea. Obv using sniff to start it will help as that’s ether, more easy to combust than diesel , and will help wang the engine over more to build pressure up. I’d be getting...

Need to do the dead head pump test with the correct Delphi kit to see if it can produce the correct amount of bar. Have you tried giving it a tiny bit of sniff to see if it’ll start and keep running ?

Then again throttle body was off the 182 that’s been sat for yonks.

We did change that then it threw a hissy fit and wouldn’t start at all with the solid red light came on.... Wondering if the loom above gearbox has a half broken wire in it. Those lambda wires seemed to be ok, got resistance checked to and from ecu plug , and load tested wiring to the plug...

In the fact there’s a smiley face on the floor ( looking directly between the crank 🤣)

Don’t know about dewalt ect but I’ve abused my wilfookies at work daily for 3 years and they’ve never stopped working , even dropped my 1/2 gun from high up and it survived ( battery fell apart but still works lol ) usually see them come up onsale at euros/ toolstation as a kit for decent coin

Silicon slider grease. An the tiniest amount of Pad grease of the ears to stop the getting corroded fast and sticking. ( apec do brake grease ) clean everything up ie all matting surfaces the pad has contact with. Callipers ears , carrier , piston ect General rule of thumb is a tiny amount of...

bottom end knocks on these sound like top end knocks. if Chris pulled the sump and took the main caps off one of them will have span , or rod bearing. injector knock will have it chucking smoke out the exhaust as it’ll be overfuelling. Cam rattle doesn’t sound anywhere near as bad. id also...

Actually tel a lie , I have seen oil like that before. A scenic I rebuilt an engine on last year , the lump i took out had bad service history( lack of oil changes ) that was all like that , including a very clogged intake port. bet sump is full of it and it’s span a big end Got a front starter...

Theses don’t run lifters. They’re solid buckets ( set clearance buckets non shimmed ) that oil looks abit weird. If it still sounds s**t , it’s probably either finally spat a big end, or somethings adrift. if You was closer I would of had a look at it for you.

Faulty clutch I’d say. Only other time I’ve had that is an Astra 1.6 with thrust washers gone on the crank, rattled until clutch pressed lol. Be something simple. altho second video doesn’t look good ....

Bolt on thermostat

Been a while since I’ve had a look , should be a 10mm nut on a bracket that bolts to the left bottom near sump, then bolts further up on thermostats housing/ around that area Can’t find a pic but if

Abs pump wiring runs across chassis leg behind gearbox mount cradle. Reverse light switch runs over end of box under the mount ( should be self explanatory ) and engine loom bolts to the gearbox mount cradle at given points with 8mm/10mm bolts

PAG oil for R134A systems unless stated otherwise

Get it welded then , the bungs that you glue in ain’t really 100% reliable. welded , face skimmed and new inlet gasket will have it sealed a treat.

If I can throw my two pence in, DONT do a swirl flap delete. Done plenty of them at work aswell as owning a few 1.9cdtis ( same s**t less 1 cylinder ) and they loose low down torque and abit of fuel economy. Fit the EGR restrictor plate from fiat ( has 4 holes in it as a pose to a full open...

Ask AlexW mate , think sash’s Dci has a shorty on it

Afternoons work if you’ve done them enough to know which way everything comes apart. youll need a new o’ring for the cylinder headend of the oil feed pipe aswell. But usually , it’s undo the cat and it’s bracket underneath , air box , Oil feed pipe , turbo outlet hose , inlet hose , 3 nuts...

, could get away with a k9k722, , would just need bare block and head , swap your ancillaries over to it, pump and injectors ect. All dependant what spec engine yours is ; a picture of the engine will help. Will know what fuel system it’s on ect

Careful, some later k9s front starters are cable shift boxes but 6 speed will not fit as Bolt holes don’t line up. kangoos are a right mash up of all versions from what I’ve worked on. as for heads; depending what type EGR unit is bolted to it ; they’re differ ever so slightly from euro 3/4...

Welcome to my world of putting an 11 back on the road ... still trying to get a windscreen for it... been told 9 and the 11 are practically the same up front. Comical to know that mk2 pov spec suspension parts fit aswell 😆 yeah was thinking of putting a blow through Webber onto it and then...

Water pump was the same on my 11 GTL when I changed it the other day. Had to ‘ modify ‘ de-cast the casing to clear stuff. Tempted to bolt a turbo to the 11 🤣

I was with you remember ... half the admin was in that coffee tent with them 🤣, howling at you just walking in like you own the joint pmsl!

Think they learned to not EVER pitch up next to a load of northern / welsh people ever again .... couldn’t stop crying at who ever it was throwing an tantrum!!! f**k sake it’s a camping weekend, we all don’t need a extension lead for but plugs