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As you know, had the same feeling with my 172 after pouring £££ into it. Since buying the MR2 ive realised theres better cars out there for a lot less spend if that makes sense!

Not at the moment, using it on the road primarily but I will do a track day in it I reckon. Yellow plug is on the squib when you pull the wheel off.

Ah. Expensive as well for it to not be plug and play. Does it come with the airbag resistor? I thought the self cancelling thing was the yellow plug which goes through into the boss. Its standard apart from a stainless catback. Just bought some Tein springs and long term planning to 2ZZ. Love...

Nice - just got one of these myself. What boss did you go for if you dont mind me asking? Heard a lot of them mess with the self cancelling @mr bognor

Same

Thanks mate

Have you got any pics of how you routed your brakelines internally? Just on with doing mine and could do with a guide before i bang any holes in!

I think rust will be a consideration soon... even 'mint' cars might be hiding it under the sideskirts due to them being rivetted on. I paid £800 for my old 182 6-7 years ago on 110k, proper dog. My 172 on 87k I paid £1200 for with belts etc. done but thats hiding some rust on the sills now!

Looking good mate!

Noice

I believe you need a custom ABS ring (8 teeth or something) and a hall effect sensor wired to the clocks (speed input), or you can pick that up at the bulkhead connector and into the loom that way. Be interesting to know exactly how to wire it up though to an ABS car, @bloke do you think it...

Does your dash top fit ok without the bottom or any additional supports mate?

Can confirm Toms car is epic in person!

Nice, how did you do the camo?

Is there any upgrades to the rear suspension on these? Is it possible to go coilover rear?

Very nice. Do these all have the r link stereo?

Thats for the trim clip for the arch liners, it pushes into that hole.

Maybe something like a strut brace, so a collar either side that would act as a washer on the bolts.

Ive thought about a box section welded to the subframe spanning between the subframe bolts and using that to transfer the load to the chassis legs.

I drilled the bolts off for the filler cap, I also replaced the rivets with stainless nuts and bolts so its easier to remove next time. I think I used m6 or m8.

Take the skirts off and poke from outside, mine was much worse with the skirts removed. Done be deceived by it feeling solid inside, mine was packed solid with crap in the skirt.

Does the cup blower work in place of the climate one, same wiring etc?

Just FYI, the filler cap rust will need the cap and filler neck removing, cleaning and treating inside and out, it comes from mud and crap sat on the filler neck, its quite a pain of a job to do!

Its like getting back with your missus after shes had a few batches up her... never the same!

Yeah. Its not too bad, take the little clip off and prise the spring off with a small screwdriver.

Is it a purely electric heater @neil a

@Raceface_13 im just going to wire the live to the blower motor and run it to the battery via a switch as the rest of the car electrica are covered by a kill switch anyway. @Mash. did this in his cup as well so might have more info.

@SharkyUK I would just try and start it and see how it goes, if it works, great, if it goes pop, whack a standard engine in and just cut your losses. Appreciate you are in deep but anything else is madness surely? Do you have any comeback at all on those who have let it get to this stage? IMO...

Hacksaw a 'cross' into the top until you hit metal, then use a chisel and tap it off in sections, best way I found.

Great work Dan, cant wait to get in it again!