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You can flip the honeycomb ones if you need to move the exhaust up or down a little, they have the mounting holes off centre for that reason already.

Yep, the trouble is it's difficult to get encapsulated silicone for me to pre-apply - something that doesn't activate for a year of storage until fitted - of course people can use it when fitting if they like, silicone won't cause any issues with poly really - I was trying to find something I...

Good to hear, I did look at using some strips of preapplied sealants but they're a bit tricky with shelf life,

It's surprising how much variation there is, the dogbone mount castings as well have the issue - they differ even from the same manufacturers depending on what batch they come from, bit of a struggle to get decent parts anywhere atm, the new foam ones have a little more preload to cope even more...

I'm not sure what else there is out there, someone might have some other options, I think I do have a new dogbone somewhere, but I can't remember where I stored it, I'll have a look and see if I can find it or not.

If you're not happy with the NVH from the powerflex I think you'd be even worse with the Evol

Yea I did redo the design for some better material with even less NVH - but it pushed the price up some so I didn't really push them, plus I haven't been working really bar odd jobs for half the year due to some surgery.

Trip to the dyno and actually drove the buggy at last! Yes I'm a tease, it really is only that long. Unlucky. (that's what she said, etc)

I mean tyres are way better these days but even with decent midrange - I stuck some cheapish Dunlops on the 406 a while back - they struggle compared to top end tyres after a bit of wear. I think there's about 4-4.5mm left on the Dunlops and I literally can't set off at some junctions on...

The other thing I'd check if it's breaking up at high rpms is the crank and cam sensors, the installation/air gaps on those, and the especially the wiring to them - seen way too many bad loom 'adapter' jobs with no or broken shielding on the crank and cam sensors which will cause the ECU to lose...

I mean you definately could fit it - you can fit anything with a welder and a grinder - the question is do you need it. It adds a fair bit of weight and complexity and only really benefits more than that when you're running high power and wide front tyres. If you're wanting to run 235-245+...

Yep, box figures are bullshit tbfh. I haven't found anything better than the Makita's for impact guns. Their big 3/4 gun is a beast and peanuts £££'s wise too. The new mid torque is lovely too, just bought one for my brother for xmas.

And the Snap On battery stuff is mainly rebranded chinese stuff that they use for the generic lines you see as most stores own brand. Like their shitty welders too, terrible things.

I mean, he's claimed it for a long time but he's never managed to move any Bitcoin out of the account...

Wonder how well it fires when it keeps wobbling about in the handle anyway... I bought myself two new 5ah makita batteries today just to upset the red boys. Fit nice and tight, you lot can keep your loose holes

Unless it's actually used regular off road, probably an all season, like Martin said, cross climate 2 or similar, or Quatrac 6, assuming you have it mainly for 4wd in bad weather and the odd bit of snow. Both will cope with some light offroading too. Christ I'm even considering Crossclimates...

Citric acid. Unless the tool you're using it on is galv'd/plated, 'cause it strips plating.

I've been warning people off their shitty jacks for years, it's not a recent thing, they've been like that at least 7-8 years. Unfortunately flashy website and cheap prices still lure 'em in. They're complete crap. And if you want to buy a reseal kit to fix it yourself because they can't manage...

That's a psuedo double wishbone the same as many FWD cars, not really the same thing.

I mean the revoknuckle and similar pretty much just came about because of power and weight levels requiring less offset than a normal strut could give. It's not particularly revolutionary, it'd been around a long time before it just gave little in the way of advantage for more complexity at the...

That knurling looks like what youd normally bond a rubber bush around so I'm guessing its split away from the centre

Looks like a nylon or rubber sleeve still in the joint there? Must be able to get a new one I'd think, or have one made, that'd be a 10 minute job to knock something up if not.

We always just put cap screws through on the racers with a locknut. Just in case. Or even thread the caliper and use them to stiffen the bridge slightly too

As many already said, save the money on discs, and spend it on the pads. The difference between discs in terms of braking performance is barely noticeable. The main things with premium discs is some of them wear better and some of them are much better at suppressing brake squeal because they're...

I be honest, I do use fancy belts on the buggy, mainly the ones with a second fibre (kevlar) layer, and cross cuts so they can clear out some dust/debris give the usage (and actually herringbone belts on the most vital bits), but for anything else, buy an OE one.

This, heavy moly's are fine, I'm talking 20-40% moly stuff, because there's barely any oil to hold dirt and the moly does the work anyway. Same for just rubbing some graphite or moly powder on. Normal greases? Nah.

You can't compare manufacturers friction levels, the testing, pressure temperature, sizes, speed, etc, all vary the friction level far too much. You can compare one manufacturers compounds but you can't compare across 'em.

Hey look, a sale! On the other hand, glad I left my system mining before I went out this morning, Eth mining rewards are like 6x the normal today

Rotherham, although it looks like someone is on it.

I'll see if someone has a gearlever and linkage locally I can buy/beg/borrow to work from.