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Nothing drastic really, swapped the steering wheel for a suede OMP dished one. We have a set of 15's now with track rubber. Other than than that Im giving it a full service this week, changing the aux belt and new discs and RC5+ pads up front.

Sounds good to me. Let me know when you have a day in mind and Im sure we will be able to pop along. Our next day is at Rockingham on the 28th March.

This has changed a bit since Bedford!!

The tie rods and track rod ends pretty much sorted it. It's a different car to drive since chnging them.

Anyone had theirs snap? Ours has been previously welded and doesn't look like its going to last. Anyone got any ideas for replacements as I have read the main dealers don't make them anymore and they were around £28 which is excessive just for a bolt.

Rack Bushes?

Failed Injector? Very common and the exact symptoms as you describe.

Ive only done it once before in the dry. Debating whether to run our 16's with Yoko S-Drives or our 15's with NS2-R's. Decisions decisions.

I'll be there in a 172 Cup. Weather looks to be raining all day though which is a shame.

Ive got the Elite ones. Ive got some Loctite 2700 en route as the spec seems similar and Pure have this in some of their pictures of the stud kit on their website.

Got a stud kit en route but it's not supplied with theeadlock. What theeadlock is most suitable for this application? I see PMS supply Loctite 271 with their kits but to buy this separately seems very expensive just for some theeadlock. Anyone use anything else?

Good stuff. I see your going to Bedford on the 14th Nov so will probably see you there. Hopefully with nice new studs!

Its a 172 Cup with standard Cup wheels. Someone also mentioned in another post that the studs cant be fitted without spacers. Surely this is nonsense?

So the standard wheels will fit but you cant put the centre cap back on? How come as I cant see how they would affect fitting of the centre cap.

I have a kit en route from Elite as shown above. I have read that you cant use standard wheels with them on another thread on here, is this true? I plan to use standard 172 Cup wheels for wet tyres and 15's for dry track tyres.

You should have two yellow connectors coming out of the rectangle hole above the thread where the steering wheel screws into. These are the connectors you need to put resistors in. Do you not have these connectors tucked away somewhere?

I have some stainless ones en route at the mo so will fit those once they arrive and give it another go. Im hoping its just the nipple thats blocked.

I'll give that a go when I try and remove it. Cheers

Its possible I suppose. I moved onto the front which worked a dream on the N/S but the nipple is rounded off on the O/S/F so I will have a think and finish the job another day.

I'm currently changing my brake fluid using a Sealey pressure bleeder. I've pressurised the system to 15psi and I've cracked open the r/n/s nipple but there is barely any fluid coming out. Been here nearly an hour and only collected less than 100ml. What's going on???

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006B3OJZC/?tag=cliospnet01-21 This is what i used. Worked perfectly.

Thanks for the reply Dan. I was leaning against it being the balljoint as I cant see any play in it and it had a new Delphi branded one fitted last year. Although thats not to say it hasnt developed slight play which i cant see. Im baffled!

Anyone have any ideas?

Hi Guys Have a 172 Cup and when accelerating hard on uneven ground the wheel pulls left and right, you really have to hold on tight me it's very unnerving and spoils the drive. Checked for play on both fronts, no play at the 12 and 6 positions at all. No play at 9 and 3 on front offside but...

Genuine it is then. Cheers

Hi guys Any other alternative to genuine Renault parts? Been looking at FAI and Firstline wishbones but they look slightly different and dont have the slot for the arb mount to fit into. Cheers Chris

So I tried @bloke suggestion and it worked like a dream, it retracted the rest of the way into the caliper. The hub nut was only on finger tight so quite lucky I checked it. Now torqued back up to spec. Cheers!

I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on. You know the next problem will be the hub nut will be on stupid tight!! Haha.

Ah yes, I could give that a try I guess. I'll dig out my massive breaker bar and crack off the hub nut! I'm still convinced there is something wrong with the caliper.

Sorry but I don't follow?