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wrong. official schedule for these is 72k. I recommend every 36k

Non genuine listings are ALL incorrect. Reconditioned genuine is the way to go, £150ish give or take. Ph1 is the cheapest, 182 cup is most expensive, 172 cup is not available as a reconditioned unit currently AFAIK (possibly on one side but not the other)

they're fine, they just don't last long

The are very cheap disks, but also very soft so don't last long. Had a lot of surprised customers "just" replaced them and disks worn out already

Sat in one of these last week. The interior felt like it cost a total of 12p

Re: Cambelt Con/Rip off tactics. you've missed the point by about 8 million miles. You're wrong in ever single detail so your arguement and reasonning is laughable. Take it on the chin and walk away

Re: Cambelt Con/Rip off tactics. no, calling a main dealer is NEVER the BEST thing to do. putting your testicles in a guillotine is often regarded as a better idea

Re: Cambelt Con/Rip off tactics. TL;DR off to bed, cambelts to change in the morning

From what I've learned locally, the rest of the companies that formed Track Group are still going as that, they just binned off TDF. Matt and Steve (Track Club owner) are apparently not on speaking terms and havn't been for a long time

Seen similar though. Yes that is a fuel injector clip on the throttle cable and yes that is a kink in the fuel hose being used for a servo vacuum pipe

that is a get you out the s**t repair, not a leave it like that forever job. nasty

just give it a good old yank and a wiggle

the red hatch? Thats an original Swift GTI. I think it's on throttle bodies

Drivers tyres. keep you on your toes ;)

Yup. Mitch1503's was so bad it was triggering the knock sensor to r****d the ignition timing and it was about 15-20bhp down. if the dephasr is knocking, that means it's not locked, so the cam timing is constantly floating about and changing randomly

it will be louder, but it WILL have a flat spot which you'll struggle to have mapped out. You will have to cut the cat off the original system, so re-fitting for MOT isn't as simple as you might think

not known as crack-tek for nothing, Milteks crack worse than a peanut brittle. You're not going to be able to mix and match IMO, you'll need a new Miltek rear section, or a full replacement system in another brand (Piper etc)

I would also suggest adding another hose tail. Losing fuel pressure isn't worth the risk

No that would be to surface harden new cams that havnt been heat treated

tried some decent sparkplugs yet?

probably the clutch release bearing. Gearbox off to sort it so full clutch replace really

lots of over run, minimal boost but drive it fairly aggressively, frequent oil changes. Use Mineral oil for the first and second sump full, change at 50 miles and 300 miles, then semi synth for another 500 upping the boost slightly, then switch to Fully synthetic and go for it

Mutual friend of mine and Beanies/Moos who moves cars for us

set minimum about 3 above what it really is. you want to be roughly in the range of 40-225, that will change if you alter the base throttle opening though, so remember to keep resetting the minimum while you balance, or you'll be idling on the 5% throttle line

Absolutely loving that manouver! Almost worth losing a fresh sticker for. Bit silly of him really, he wasn't even in the same race and he's cost a fair distance off the 205 by just getting in the way.

This is what I'm fighting in my head at the moment. I'm even considering buying a 200 box for the 197 to get the slightly longer 5th and 6th. I've just owned cars that are SO much faster that use less fuel it kills me every time I click through the trip computer

I'd not have anything different, other than maybe a nicer cloth. If they were nicer trimmed they'd be as good as Williams seats The Recaros trigger my back to seize up

Rules area little loose as it's a new series with few competitors at the moment. Years ago there were people getting round the Mi16 rule for racing by putting the 16v head on the 8v block. The rules were worded to say original block, not engine. It was RAPID anyway, didn't seem like there was...

​do you want to think about that one? :p

that only applys to full driveshaft assemblies. A boot is a boot as long as it fits and doesn't split instantly. Are you using proper metal clips, or cable ties?