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All 8 bolt heads sheared off I've been looking after this car for 2 years and I've never removed those bolts before. We found 2 of the bolt heads rattling around the bay. Can't see any reason for it to have happened

different type of sensor, there's a few different ones for different applications

I wouldn't put it that close, it will get cooked. There's usually guideline from the wideband manufacturer on how far to mount after a turbo. I'd want to be a couple of foot downstream most of the time

Cams are buggered though

I'd not have an issue with most of that. Seen a lot worse. The small dink in the top of the bore should be ok if you make sure it's de-burred, and it's above the top ring sweep

lol, wasn't going to go anywhere like that. 5 minutes of pumping the pedal and nothing coming out the bleed nipples.........AH FFS!!!!

One of the cars we took was running pagid OE spec pads they did 5 laps before showing signs of fatigue and fine again next day. They did 2 Bedford days and a llandow after that

Last year we took 2 clios and between us we had a set or rear disks with bearings, a throttle body. 2 injectors, a set of sparkplugs and 5 litres of oil and coolant. Didn't use a thing as we spent 2 days before prepping cars

You muppet

don't. worst fitting exhaust ever made. Seriously hideous

it will be mapped for what is in the tank when it goes in, that is all you need to know really

All the other special tools I've tried havn't fitted, or have been impossible to move once in the slot, or similar. That includes the snap on one I tried. They may have changed something but the one I've seen on the van recently is the same still

tried one, it's not as good

those looked dried out and worn to hell! they shouldn't have been fitted like that to start with!!!

the stat isn't part of the housing on these. There are 3 bolts on the part just behind that bracket in the front of your picture, on the first section after the top hose connection. the thermostat is inside that part. (exactly the same fitment as a 172/182)

these alternators don't need an exciter like earlier ones (williams etc). The charge light output it literally that, just an output to turn a light off. If you look at a standard loom, one of the wires on the plug is blanked.

I just remove everything. It takes moments and gives so much of a better line of sight to get everything perfect. I have honestly done so many that I don't think I can be subjective about how hard it is for a n00b anymore. I find it stupidly easy, but it's routine. I still see them utterly...

Got it on the ramp already and been going through the list and order of jobs. First off swap the sump.....I get all the glamourous jobs LOL

1.4/1.6 16v is harder than a 2 litre IMO, much less space, and less logical

My self made tool. no off the shelf tool comes close. I've made a few for people

It "made" 236 where the itbs were fitted. Ran like a dog though, then I had to fix it when something rattled round one cylinder. Should make more on better bodies and filter

harder to start when hot usually means you need a new crank sensor

Yes. High comp, 422s, ITBs and Omex......what should it be making?

You racked that up already! You need a daily snotter

they need cleaning a lot more regularly than that. Every normal service interval it will be filthy

its all interchangeable

bahahahaha

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?235672-Warning-for-anyone-with-powdercoated-wheels

I've seem similar happen to wheels that have been refurbed multiple times. Had a friend break a set of R33 Skyline wheels on a 200sx. They'd been powdercoated 3 times

still better looking than you