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they're £10.27 each for genuine. Think about £7.50 for non gen

sounds like the ICV has stopped working completely

Re: My Phase 1 ITB Daily Runner just been and looked again, it's actually £441+vat for the GT's, so even less difference

he lives in Reading. Busmans holiday

look in the traders forum ;)

Re: My Phase 1 ITB Daily Runner wow, nice marketing misdirection. It's actually £399+vat, or £499+vat, so a lot less difference than you're suggesting, and the results are about 10bhp different. Trust me, If the GT cams worked I'd sell them, there's more margin in them for a start, so I make...

god sake. so close to it being right after previous owner bodgery :( Mostly time and waste oil disposal to remove the engine. £100 odd as a ballpark

they're wrong, because shims aren't available. Sounds like they're not really trying, or interested. My place will do them, but they're special order obviously (in the right sizes)

nope, these ones don't work like that. Would make life easier if they did

I get them from the reconditioner I use for machining

Looking at getting a sheet of ally for an undertray for you ASAP mate.

Birchdown are most likely the closest for you. They're in Malpas, Cheshire

I upgraded a 172 from one of those maps and a viper induction kit, to one of our maps and a KTR induction kit. 8.2bhp peak gain.

yup, late 182 alarm switch/bonnet close sensor

I like :) Gave the lights a quick going over with a mop about a year ago but they deteriorated a bit since. Look perfect now. What's opinions on the performance now I'm guessing a few people have been out in it? Bronze looks much better in those pics

My sisters father-in-law has been trying to sell me his. Really annoying as I still have coilovers that will fit it far too easily, and a spider engine that will drop in with next to no effort

ironic as they're marked as not for road use isn't it

you can buy those plugs in Maplins. Insulated Spade connectors are adequate though

yeah, apparently there's a safety cut off if the voltage is too high so you don't blow things up. Had no idea it existed before that. Before I found the fault, putting a jumper pack on would start the car, it pulled the voltage down

if you mean the flexi joint, there's meant to be a gap of about 5mm. If there's no gap, the gasket is worn and needs replacing

may need an alternator too. Before I sold my old car to Dan, the alternator stopped regulating and was putting 20v into the battery. Nothing would turn on

Russell Brand once said "There's nothing sexual that can't be improved by spitting". Applies to other things too LOL

Piper and Janspeed systems have an insert you pull out so nothing non reversible needs to be done. I'd normally charge about £65 (hour plus a bit of material cost).

knackered battery then. Nice easy solution. annoying

this is why i like modding the cat for a straight pipe and making a sleeve joint

can if you're quick, but it can also make the O-rings swell and be harder to get in

no, you've misunderstood, the flare doesn't sit well on the back of the cat. You can usually get them to work, but only with a genuine joiner clamp (cheap ones won't let you do them up tight enough without stripping the thread off the bolts), and a fair old blob of high temp silicon

yes, unless there's damage to the injector. look closer

the one at the engine end won't leak fuel out, that will only cause an air/vacuum leak if it's not sealed.

spit