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nope, chips/boards/processors were new in about 2009/10. 3 times the data file size of an omex 600 in a GEN90. Only 2 aftermarket ECU's have used that chip set, and one has been dropped entirely quite recently The 600 was a re-hash of a discontinued GEMS Minizeta that had been around since the...

GEN90 is £1040 and it plugs straight in. Omex is old technology

nah, that's turbo'd, and just used the ITB casings with the butterflys removed

ben_p's ph1 was meant to have it done. I'm talking 4-5 years ago

yes, there are only 2 fitment's. 54mm (everything except 182 cup) or 60mm (182 cup/cup pack) bolt spacing to the hub.

It was started but never finished some years ago.

rather than guessing, get someone with a bore scope/fibre optic camera, and compression and leakdown equipment to inspect the engine. (All facilities I have FYI)

mount it on the end of the head like I've done. Pretty simple. could knock one up I guess. It's nothing hugely technical, just a flat plate with a bend, a cut out, and a few holes drilled

fully agree with that. The drivability is very well done. There's room for improvement with the power side though, done it several times. For the price there's no down side, it can just be improved upon :)

you won't be hitting that power, bit under 200 on ITB's and those cams normally. only limitation you have is detonation and revs. I'd keep to a 7.2k limiter personally. Revs kill rods, detonation kills pistons. All you can do is map it and see what it manages to make.

throttle response is always a good improvement from having ITB's. Induction length is always important on any setup

as far as piggyback controllers go, that's not a bad one. It still won't work properly on a clio, the standard ECU learns around the adjustments you make with a piggyback

thought it did 230 at FMS/69/Scholar?

that's silly cheap

no, completely different. lots of the holes are in the same place though so you might get lucky with the mount lining up

mapping it properly has a lot more to it than that. Retarding the ignition is not alway the right way to stop detonation, often advancing it is the right solution at certain load points

yes it's a fully mappable ECU. I use them on older clios, and 205 GTI's generally, but there's no reason it can't work well on a ph1 172 at all. they've been used to run 172 engines in mk1 clios a few times now, the only shortcomings are not being able to run the 172 dash, or control Fly-by-wire...

you could look at a piggyback ECU, but they don't work too well with clios as the stock ECU learns around the changes. Could sell you a Canems ECU, you're on cable throttle I assume so not too much else to change. Wire it in and keep the stock ECU running the dash...

no cheap way round it that I'd recommend. I'd fit a GEN90 personally

you change the part of the bin file that is the sensor calibration scale. It's basically voltage against a pressure scale (but in hexadecimal code). Trouble is you start effecting other parts of the map, other than just the fuel and ignition tables, because everything is cross referenced to...

it's been done on stock ECU with a lot of messing about, but it's generally sub-standard. Not worth considering IMO

yes, typo obviously :p

the head is CNC ported as standard. The port work is clearly done by a machine if you have a look Mechanic doesn't know what he's talking about. This is why specialists exist

Pistons. You will need to change to 172 pistons or you will have lower compression. the 172/182 cylinder head has a a fair amount different to the megane have a read here http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?580145-whoops it made 180 once I'd fitted the correct bottom end, ported the...

Who said the dephaser broke? it can't just "break" they rattle, that's as far as failure goes unless it physically explodes I'd say thats had timning done wrong twice, damaged valves twice, and they've charged you to repair their **** up

shouldn't make a difference if they use barometric compensations, which are normally built into the software

you're looking at roughly 25bhp loses on a standard car (give or take depending on tyre condition and pressure, geearbox condition and oil temperature and a few other things) that would make this one 177 at the fly, which is either a strong car, or over reading a little (I've no idea on Veizu's...

small blowers are actually better. Directed air straight at the rad. Big fans look impressive but are pathetic at actually keeping the engine cool as the air is blown round the car not at it

suspiscious that it's happened just after the belts were done. Was it done by a specialist? Repair depends on the damage done. if it's dropped a valve (which is sounds like to me) then it's a new engine

sounds very cheap to me, too cheap almost. What is being done?