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Yeah. The top part is effectively a large spacer, so your brace will do the same job. I think that's the only way you can fit it. I don't know what's happened to that company, but it's properly gone down hill over the last few years. Maybe lost some good staff during covid. They have some...

It looks to me like you'd remove to top portion of the top mount. The pictures on their website show the brace sitting flat on the strut tops. Lots of their instructions are poorly written and short on detail.

Rings Andy at Engine Dynamics shortly after returning from the ring…

There’s one in our car park which belongs to an apprentice. He bought it and is struggling to get insurance. It’s immaculate inside and like this car, some of the parts are near perfect. I’ve been pestering him for nearly a year to sell me it but he can’t make his mind up. I see Gold, everybody...

Yeah, imagine the headlines - Teesside muscleman crashes on circuit after coming under pressure from fat squidgy old geezer. 😂

No OEM springs sadly, but as you’ve sad; Eibach Pro_kit are the way to go. OSF Wishbones no longer available but you can still get NSF. I’d do that and refurb the OSF and replace the bushes. I have a list of 182 parts which many will fit yours, but it also lists OEM alternatives which might...

Pictures please

The problem with these old cars is that it's hard to know if the parts are authentic. You can either trust the seller or refurbish your own, assuming those parts are genuine too. It's a gamble.

At least you can see how clean it is under there. Looks a minter 😍

I thought it was a fiesta. Just past Sunny out? I saw two lads in a blue fiesta arguing with each other on the grass verge 😂

Not sure fella. You’ve got the side skirt off?

Only footage of a drive by. I had to back off due to a red flag. I’d usually be fighting with that Mini down the straight. This was the whole point of going for more power. No more having to sit behind slower FWD cars when they won’t do the decent thing and pull over. Amazing engine!

That’s how it was described to me. The rear axle isn't perpendicular to the ground. Any adjust to the camber, tilts the wheels and affects their alignment with the centerline of the vehicle, which includes the toe angle. Different suspension and wear and tear can affect it as well.

My 2 pictures from Croft lol These must have been late morning as I still had the plates on. I'm surprised they were any as I didn't go out properly until after lunch and he'd buggered off by then. The design is certainly showing its age, but it's still a decent track weapon!

I got the last driver's side genuine wishbone. It came from Poland via Kev at Kam Racing. 2 years ago now. As above, refurbish your originals.

Sorry, I was rushing out the door. To be fair it was a two-part question so the real answer is yes and probably. 🤣 I'll message you with some real-world examples illustrating the benefits and drawbacks of doing it.

Yes.

Yes, they do but I had to put washers on mine to bring it lower as the exhaust tip rubbed against the trim and melted it. Picture after I added washers and the melted trim.

A very enjoyable update 🤣 I hate that HPAS on track but overheating is substantially reduced if you use something like RED Line fluid.

Wow, I've seen that so many times, usually it's the rear pads falling out. I did notice the rear tyre pattern (AD08rs) and thought it looked a bit standard for track days. Lessons learned I guess. We all have to start somewhere. I'm on the reserve list for the 10th and/or 15th so fingers...

Great day at Croft yesterday where I caught up with @Brigsy in Bumblebee and @SharpyClio in his 182. Did my obligatory sighting laps on my road-going steelies - I love those little wheels. Pictures courtesy of Brigsy. A lovely Racing Blue 182 in front of me - anyone on here? I managed...

It turned out to be a lovely day Jon and I appreciate your advice on engine temps. As you say, you were certainly lucky that didn't happen on track. For someone who's a bit "rusty," you sure know your way around a circuit, Jon. Always great to play chase and lead with sensible drivers.

@SCB not sure if you’ve pressed the button on your suspension yet, but I’m happy to report you won’t be disappointed if you buy them. A good friend of mine came to Croft yesterday and set mine up. 5100s, 90Nm front, 100Nm rear. Left a decent gap in the arches - don’t like them too low...

Yep, my mates 182 race car took 5-6 rounds a year over a 4 year period before letting go. It wasn’t a low mileage engine either.

You mean you're not doing a track day tomorrow?

Under the side skirts there’s a sticker, peel it back. If you buy BH S50 Dynax it comes with a lance. Push the lance as far in as you can and slowly draw it back as you spray. Then turn the other way and repeat. It’ll usually hit those rear quarters without taking the inner cards off.

Isn’t Birchdown an hour away? Mine was a dirty Throttle Body. The butterfly valve wasn’t moving freely enough, which caused an inconsistent signal back to the ECU, which in turn put it in limp mode (that symbol on your dash) and an EML light. I took it off, cleaned it with WD-40 and contact...

Result. It’s a rare beast not to have rust in those places. Well done!