Search results

Rears do 33% of the braking, if work properly.

Clios don't need bigger brakes IMO. Rebuilding the calipers with a biggred kit and decent pads like Ferodo DS1.11 front/DS2500 rear with fresh fluid and they're great.

@Munday I've got one with header tank and sensor. £20 delivered. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333038421144

https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.cartech-one.co.uk

This got me looking at these and didn't realise how cheap they are. It'd have to be a coupe for me though. Something like this... https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201810311997906?postcode=wa118et&model=Z4&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly

Haha yeah and it'll smell of curry and fags!

The meter will be running, beaded seat cover extra.

I'll be bringing all my tools up mate so more than happy to help out if anything goes wrong. I can also go out with you in yours or you come out with me in mine/yours to give a few pointers on the track.(y)

Rear bushes, subframe maybe.

Yeah Windows movie maker mate. Really simple. Save 'for high definition' then upload to YouTube.

Worn rack bushes can cause vague steering yes.

@Nik How many full day track spaces are left?

Looking forward to seeing this out on track driven in anger. Should surprise some much higher spec machinery.

I also loved my ep3, 5 years and near 100k miles in it. Totally different cars but for sheer fun the Clio is better. For a daily road car the ep3 pisses over the Clio.

On track as well would of been better.

Like them all, the EP3 has a place in my heart having owned one for 5 years but I think if I had to choose one with cost irrelevant it'd be the JDM FD2.

Its the wheel paint which caused the issue for me with the Advans I had. Once they got hot the paint flaked and the nuts came loose.

Wheels and tyres look good. Once out on track keep an eye out for those tapered wheel nuts coming lose due to the paint on the new wheels. I very nearly lost a wheel on the Celica 190 because of this.

Looks a whole lot easier than mine being side mounted. https://www.audiworld.com/how-tos/a/audi-a4-b7-how-to-replace-thermostat-420900

That should make it easier then mate if there's space to get your hands down there? This is the temp sensor I used. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Febi-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-With-Seal-And-Retaining-Spring-Porsche-Cay-29318/173523718174?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Don't think VCDS differentiates which sensor so I'd change the upper first to see if it sorts it, if not you know it's the lower and do the thermostat at the same time. If doing it yourself I can help with how to go about it as I've done it twice now ?

Decent mate, these engines really need a remap to bring them alive though. R-Tech are very reputable and cheap for the TFSI. Also if doing the lower coolant temp sensor you should really do the thermostat at the same time, upper coolant sensor is easy.

Think you've answered your own question if they have plastic/rubber on them. Although I cant see an ABS ring being either material.

GY it is then, not really bothered about outright dry grip so long they are decent in the wet and are quiet and comfortable as the current Conti Sport 5's are horrendously noisy and firm.

Need 2 rear's for my upcoming track day Saturday as it looks like rain. So which? Only £14 between them in price £99 fitted for the Michelin and £86 fitted for the GY. My preference, good in the wet, quiet and comfortable. I'm leaning toward the GY.

ECU, someone breaking a Clio. What's the issue?

Just smash the bolt through or drill it out and then open the centre hole slightly and get a bolt leader and pull some new bolts through?

Spare front brake pads if using OE as you can get through them very quickly once pushing on.

Great buy. Definitely a car I will own at some point. How was the ride comfort on b roads, and is the clutch light?

Haha you don't count as you have the hot model ?