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Made some center caps for my 2118s using some "Renault" caps off ebay and some 60mm x 2mm perspex tube. I measured the gap between the hub lip and the edge of the wheel, which is 9.5mm. I aroldited the rear of the caps in rings once the tube was cut at 9mm (wanted a little gap) Filled and...
Those seats are proper amazing. They just look so perfect and as you said, they can be swapped from car to car.
Shame about the body work bud. It's a old car now and it's no surprise that its happened, just a bit gutting that it has.
Nice! Thanks for that James.
My replacement studs turned up today so I'll fit them Friday after work. The ACF50 should be here tomorrow so I'll give them a few coats, prior to fitting.
I ordered 10 of each, so I've a few spares of each size.
Well I've ordered the ACF50. Got the bottle as recommended.
So the studs and spray should be here by the weekend. The plan was to fit them friday night and leave overnight, like before. I could do them at home but the car will be driven to work so makes sense to do it this way, like before...
@JamesBryan is the bottle too much? Seems a lot to use on just studs or does it not go far?
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-3572-acf-50-anti-corrosion-formula.aspx
Race parts on a daily. Saying that, my wheels are off more times than a race car anyway! 😂
Yes I know, and expected it to do so over time, not in such a short space though. My old ones had been on for well over year and nowhere near as bad! Very surprised at this as these are £6 per bolt and the Bimmec/PMS ones are a max of £4 a bolt.
Haha, love the anagram! What can I say, I like...
Ok so I need to jump on this! Went out to the car on the weekend and saw this! Not happy.
Considering these are much more money than the previous Bimmec ones and even the PMS ones (cant see and difference between these and Bimmec) and have only been on 2 weeks, I'm a tad gutted. So much so...
Ah the big one. But then it's good for 5 years again. I have the same this year. You doing dephaser and water pump too?
Good to know ktec was helpful with nice customer service. Makes you want to use them again with stuff like that.
What's the next part?
Glad you sorted the mount issue. Was you just being ti cautious then or do you actually have a different/pattern part gearbox bolt?
I didnt use the "loctite" brand so maybe it's not as high strength, even though it said it was?
These new ones are loctighted in, but only to 25nm, so I'm hoping that if I ever do need to remove them, it shouldn't be too hard. Previously I've done them up a lot more.
Indeed mate. Only reason I changed was because I had the pipes here. Luckily my bumper takes minutes to remove, especially as it was already jacked up.
It's always nice to have the proper stuff, but your right, the RMB is doing good.
Thanks chaps.
I should. And I looked at @Old Tarby! Ph1...
I've recently had a stud issue. I went to undo the wheel nuts the other week and they was seized onto the stud. I thought i was getting the nuts undone, but turned out the stud was being removed. I took it to work, removed the stud, re-loctighted it in and let it set. Went to try again, and once...
@frayz that's what i thought. Titanium ones are lovely, but big bucks though.
I'd like the lotus ones but not at that price. Sure I've seen open ended steel ones before in similar style to those, but cant find them now.
Most go for the Bimmec ones as they are same as PMS, come in various sizes to suit your style (if running spacers or not) and are cheap and readily available.
Anybody use different wheel nuts other than the ones of Bimmec, PMS, etc?
I'd quite like some that are like these.
I had some D1 ones years ago on my old 182. These was 40mm and perfect size, but aluminium. Not sure if that's recommended though? Worried the material will be weaker than steel?