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Itll be uch issues. Send it away for repair to dieselspecialist in ebay, cheap and fast.

First of all need some details of what car has the issues

Ive been thinking and your right, any restriction will increase pressure. Additional volume of oil needing to be moved and pump cant handle the demand maybe, oil cooler not that restrictive so not helping things. Do wonder if pressure drop like this without logging has caused a few bottom ends...

Done a bit of digging and it does seem to be an issue with many cars with aftermarket oil coolers fitted. I guess a lot of people fit them and do not even check pressure assuming all is good. Its got to be down to the length of the lines or the 90deg fittings. On other setups ive fitted the oil...

Looking at the datalogs for before and after its down by 0.2bar after fitting oil cooler on initial startup. Im swinging towards lines restrictive/length of lines at the moment causing the pressure drop. Im going to log oil temps to see if it needs a cooler for street use, as when driving last...

I did indeed, i primed up the oil system before starting which fills the cooler as it bypasses the stat slightly. Took approx 1ltr more oil than usual to get to the max, and checked again after running up. Ive fitted a few mocal kits to other/shitter engines and not had this issue before so bit...

I have the full 3x boxes. Its a good bit of kit for the price, cant fault mine

Evening all. Installed a mocal oil cooler kit to a megane r26 F4R today which caused oil pressure drop. Pre oil cooler fitting with oil temp around 80deg, it was doing around 1.5bar on idle, 3.5k rpm 4bar, poss slightly more with more rpm, engine sounds fine so assume its all good where it...

2nd shed for tools. Plenty of room by the looks of it

Sort the shed out and get a toolbox of some description. Small box to carry your gear about.

Turn the uj until it slots over the rack, its easy enough to do with everything in situ. Have you pulled the column when removing?

Efi can virgin the ecu, will be plug and play.

Pcv actually looks very similar to the clio diesel one. They block up easily in the dervs so defo worth cleaning. Carefully pop it apart with a small screwdriver.

Looks about right in the pic. Check the spade connectors in fusebox for corrosion.

Its the middle one of the small 3 in the underbonnet fusebox iirc. Can see the white exciter wire going into it at the bottom

They will most likely have virgined the ecu or fitted an emulator inside. You could try and connect the can lines to an obd port and see if a scanner will delete any codes stored, if thats the case the ecu is unlocked, if it wont let you delete codes its locked. Id definitely get it gone for...

How has the ecu been de immobilised? Emulator? Has it run before?

Uch needs repair. Send it off to dieselspecialist on ebay, its cheap and he does a decent job.

Car year model and make would help. If clio2, the uch needs repairing.

Avoid the cheap ratchet tools off ebay if crimping insulated terminals. Had a few, all pretty shite.

What are you crimping? For uninsulated amp tyco, delphi etc these are the dogs bollox. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252065041663?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qoAKqcMrSYO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=sQrVQpEdQKi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Good condition used would be a better option.

I snapped an injector plug off when removing the oil filter on my old Kangoo, your not alone there

Yep you need the dustcover as its got the bumpstop in it, which is secondary damping on stock shocks/lowered springs, its not included with the shock. Febi do aftermarket replacements which are ok and cheap, i wouldnt refit that one its knackered.

Renew that bumpstop/dust cover before fitting. Give the shocker a tug

Generally i just slip with the crowbar levering the lower arm down and take all the skin off my knuckles :LOL:

Alternator saga is over (for now) Went to local french breakers and they had about 30 110amp dci alternators on the shelf, mine had 125amp on but sick of pissing on took a punt as all the meganes run 110amp so picked the cleanest with correct pulley which was reman, daft £20. Fitted, had to...

One side jacked up and power to get it in, jacking both sides is for the weak

Exciter wiring is right by the looks of it as measures 12v with ignition on, just no batt light so assume regulator issues. I snipped the plug off the old Kangoo loom and can see evidence of the exciter wiring having been probed before as damaged. Got to be a duff regulator, if you get chance to...

If its a cheap green board clone, they are terrible. However the gold board/full chip work well, no issues or disconnecting, had mine for years now.