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Sorry for the lack of updates, will do some more over xmas and get this up to speed. With the current variations of temp in the garage condensation had accumulated on the cam cover. The xcp rust blocker has kept it well protected, wiped all the bare alloy down and give it another coating to...

Id change the rest. If you have access to clip, reset fuelling adaptives so it adjusts to suit. Its not 100% necessary but its like the icing on the cake.

Great project, in for updates. Plenty of turbo parts out for the dseries engine if you want a bit more power in the future

I used to use Romax all the time when Rob owned it (was it rob? Forget now :LOL: ) it used to be best place round here but last couple of sets they done, were very stingy with the powder on the barrels and price seemed to be ramping up. Ive been using Motorcool for the last few sets. Eddie who...

Updates Got head back from the machine shop, so can start assembly soon. Amac have fitted the supertech inlet and exhaust valves, cut 3 angled valve seats, lapped valves in. They also installed the cat cams single valve springs, which required a 2.2mm shim making up so the installed spring...

Updates Orange dci is due its mot in a few days. Tyres were getting right down and one of the williams wheels on the back was like a 50 pence piece causing a wub wub noise on certain road surfaces. Id prepared in advance by buying another pair of wheels to refurb a couple of years ago so...

I use xcp rust blocker. Heavy duty version of acf, works well and long lasting.

Looks good. Always like seeing the usually unloved clios getting attention. I always wanted a pov spec sunflower yellow ph1 but struggled to find one rust free.

Cant answer your question but if all else fails you will be able to get a custom length shaft made up from a few places. Get a thread posted and keep us updated on progress

Looks spot on, massive improvement.

Quality seems ok. Prob better than the J&R one i was going to use lol.

Id have a punt at that if it was a 100 and a bit cheaper. Prices gone daft for scrap now. To think i paid £80 for the orange dci in a similar state 6 years ago and £280 for the blue one a couple of years later from a trader lol.

Both my 1.5dci hunt a little on really cold days and idle is increased when first started. Heater plugs prob knackered, but if it still starts ok id just keep running it

Great job on the seats, look spot on.

Updates Drivers side outer cv on blue dci started clicking when turning approx 1000 miles ago. From previous experience they usually click forever on lock so was planning on ignoring it until it developed furthur. Anyway done 280miles on Wednesday (Goole, Rotherham, Scunthorpe and return) and...

Cant beat inferno. In for updates.

Great writeup and gutted to hear its had a bump. Its on my bucket list to do a trackday in my orange dci, tempted to book up after reading this. I reckon it needs straightening out as best as poss and keep it going if the rest of the shell is good.

Wiring to starter,or starter at a guess if no crank. I would start by checking voltage at exciter wire when its clicking. Might be corrosion in the white connector, causing low voltage combined with higher resistance at the solenoid when hot causing a no crank. Also check the starter/immob...

If anybody thinks that removing the sump plug gets more oil out, this f4r sump for example will always leave the dregs in, prob get more out with the suction pump. Most sumps ive take off have the raised/thicker area for the thread around the plug.

Sealey 6.5ltr oil suction pump works great, used it for years on all of mine. Gets as much oil out as removing the sump plug in most cases. Fast on a hot engine, but if you have oil like treacle on a cold engine, you best get a cup of tea and sit back a bit lol.

Updates Noticed drivers side front fog light was cracked on the blue dci, assume a stone done it on the motorway. Had the old ones off the trophy which are the same so ten min swap/free fix. Took my compomotives down for refurb and collected them in it.Collected. Tighter squeeze to get them in...

Updates. Well basically f**k all to update. Cyl head is still in the machine shop for supertech valve fitting, 6 weeks and counting. Hopefully get that back next week. In the mean time ive sourced all the other parts for the build. Parts for the f4r seem to be harder to get these days for...

Bosch Lambda Oxygen O2 Sensor 0258006295 Mines r26 loom so should be the same connector on yours, but check before buying.

They are indeed the bushes, not fitted mine yet. My mate had similar happen to a ndo and it drove ok just lost a gear or two.

Id be fairly confident that the cable is at fault from that diagnosis however id defo pop the cable off the selector and manually move the arm to confirm that it will move in that direction, as i have seen the ndo's break and lose a gear or two for whatever reason.

I fucked on with the trophy cable adjustment as the gearchange is a bit off and it still does not seem bob on. When i pull the box out to fit the new clutch ill prob change the cables. Ive got a new bush from cooksport too as ive reamed it out but still not the best.

Selector end as in the gearbox end. The side to side cable has adjustment, if you pop the clip off you can get a few mm adjustment either way. Its worth checking the cable to make sure its moving ok, not kinked or damaged somehow restricting movement. Also if in doubt pop the gear cable off the...

Short shifter mod on these only usually adjusts the forward/backward throw on the stick. Also usually makes them feel even more agricultural :LOL:

The side to side cable is adjustable to a degree at the selector end, did you move it when taking the cables off to ream the selector bush.

Cheers mate, Daft hour to fix to keep it right. Wiring is showing its age now its almost 20 years old but cant moan, its been reliable as f**k touch wood.