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I dont have access to a 172 to put clip on at the moment, but i would bet the tech meant resetting the adaptive richness correction to reanlign it to around 128, and throttle position setting reset. In my experience, this makes quite a difference to the overall drive, as you need to do a road...

You will need something with an inner spline/cv to suit the pk, 250meg, laguna or whatever, then a shaft to fit the 197 outer cv

You have to drive them like a fanny to keep the syncros right, a few of my mates have owned them at low mileage and all had the same issue. Its even worse than jc5 :LOL:

Tl4 is dogshit mate, the PK can handle decent power, and no syncro issues. Only £600 for a fully rebuilt pk with lsd too. Box will bolt up, as i have been in touch with somebody who has done the conversion, driveshafts will cause you issues though.

They look almost identical to Megane BC coilovers, slightly different colours. Not a bad thing, as they are decent for the money

Acetone might melt the plastic. What about drilling the plastic on an angle with a small drill bit from underneath to relieve it. Drop of epoxy resin when refitting.

Twist and a good pull should get it off

Exhaust manifold finally turned up from Camcoat, looks great. As it had finally arrived, had no more excuses so got the inlet and exhaust manifold back on. New studs fitted Exhaust manifold on Inlet on, new aerotight nuts and torqued to spec. Mrs give the gearbox a lick of paint to tidy it up...

Blue dci is flying along. I have been doing a bit of b road driving for the last couple of weeks, compared to mostly motorway. Noticed the handling was sketchy and just felt like it was going to go sideways any speed above 40mph. I suspected the rear shocks were shot, so changed them for a good...

Had a spare ten mins so tried the R26 clocks in. Plugged straight in, and everything thats possible to test with no engine in works as expected. When opening the back doors the boot open symbol lights up. Every warning light on as nothing is plugged in under the bonnet :LOL: The only...

Ps3. Decent grip in any conditions.

Megane stripped, next stop is the weigh in yard:LOL:

Engine and r26 number 453 has arrived to strip for parts. Engine has wossner pistons and pec rods, currently fitted with rs250 head, but will be reverting back to stock to get it fired up. Bought a 19t turbo, and 3" scorpion decat. Should see a bit of progress once the weather picks up.

Painted a few bits for the engine bay. Used bed liner paint from Halfords, the finish is great and durable. Been in touch with Camcoat and my exhaust manifold should land tomorrow, so might see the engine could possibly be back in this weekend:unsure:

Type d is dirt cheap, no idea why somebody would substitute the cheap red cooIant for it. I know somebody who refilled their megane with red coolant without flushing the type d out properly and it blocked the heater matrix.

Yep can just have slip in higher gears when trying to accelerate hard initially. The judder you have experienced recently will have been the start, clutch is probably down to the rivets or pressure plate is weak, or poss even contaminated with oil if you have seen a leak from that area? Get it...

If it slips when accelerating hard, it will be clutch related. The pressure plate is prob on its last legs. No time at the moment to do any work sorry mate, snowed under.

If its revving and going nowhere, surely the clutch has failed? Load it up in a high gear

It sounds like it wants a wheel bearing replacing.

Progress glacial as usual but still moving. Made a plate out of leftover carbon fibre to house 2x 52mm gauges Started adding the necessary warning lights to the dash to keep it all road legal, small discreet led's. Excuse the old wiring behind, its all getting redone very soon to suit the stack...

Updates Blue clio is running great after cambelt and new oil seals, no oil smell or leaks, done 800 miles or so and no issues to report. Serviced the rear brakes as were a bit squeaky but was due to build up of brake dust. 20 mins to remove both and clean out, and good to go. Give both dcis...

Battery is knackered by the sounds of it. Best off disconnecting it, or leaving on trickle charge if laid up for a decent period.

Brake cleaner the surfaces and a bit of strong epoxy resin will keep it in place no bother.

Use a high powered impact driver to undo the crank pulley bolt when locked up on genuine tdc pin, it will fly off no issues. My dewalt 899p2 cracks them off no problem at all. Genuine pin will be fine when torquing the crank pulley bolt up too.

Plenty of room to do the belts in situ. I wouldnt take the engine out unless it goes bang, most/if not all jobs can be done with it fitted

No need to take engine out for belt swap.

Small update on the Extra Painted some more engine parts, but still waiting for the exhaust manifold to return from ceramic coating so engine not in yet. Had a spare hour today and cut out my carbon fibre composite sheet for my stack dash. Cut it by hand and filed the edges up so its knacker...

Both look like great projects, subbed(y)

Next job i had to do was change the turbo oil feed o ring, as last time i changed it i put it in the wrong place which caused it to leak. Incorrectly fitted o ring damaged. The o ring needs fitting furthur down the shaft as @GrahamS advised. I could not get the fitting to move down the pipe, so...

After seeing the cam pulley was the later vernier type, i looked at the crank pulley to find out it was the original floating pulley. I had moved the vernier, and was not sure how it would compare position wise compared to the original fixed cam pulley. I could have timed it up ok and adjusted...