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PMSL at getting one that's not been ragged.
The worst thing you can try and do, imo. I bought one which had been used for a 2 mile trip to work, and the guy had a TVR, so it never got much stick. As soon as I started pushing it hard, the thing went wrong a million times.
Show me a high miler...
Pretty much, you bolt the subframe to the car, and then you can bolt the runner to the subframe, meaning you can slide them back and forwards. Helpful if there's more than one driver. You can just bolt the side mounts to the subframe though, meaning it's fixed and slightly lower.
I really...
172 cups only came in Mondial Blue and Iceberg Silver.
The red you're looking at is Flame red. Not a limited edition, no. Just not that many sold.
Tend to hold their price better than silvers and blacks..
Drivers side engine mount (LHS of engine bay as facing)
Upper gearbox mount (Under battery)
Lower gearbox mount (from gearbox to subframe at front)
Dogbone (gearbox to car (back of the gearbox.))
Your knocking noise, is it at the top of the revs in first and second? If so, I'd try loosening...
Just pads?
Loosen wheel bolts.
Jack rear up and put on stands (with handbrake off!).
Remove wheels.
Remove metal clips that hold pads in.
Tap slider out with hammer and screwdriver.
Remove two bolts that hold caliper yoke.
Everything will fall off.
To fit, reverse procedure.
You'll need to...
£570?! f**k me.
Pretty much, new coil spring is easy.
Inspect the shock. It could be because of the broken spring, but standard dampers are picked up on here cheap enough. Same if it's a knackered top mount.
Open the bonnet on the driveway, and get someone to blip the throttle. The engine will rock slightly on standard mounts. Do the same with solid mounts and there's hardly any movement.
Without the slight engine movement (eliminated by uprated mounts) the car picks up better when you boot it...