Search results

1.5 Dci is turbo as standard mate?

Check to see if any fuses are popped might be related to the previous owner and dodgy fitting of aftermarket stereo

Interior lights work ok when door opening?

Immobiliser issue that mate by the looks of it, not sure whether key or not

Try owning a r5 gt turbo hardly any oem parts are available for them from the dealers. All new oem that people have hoarded are massive dollar. If you want to buy stuff to restore or refresh, or generally hord parts now is the time. Loads of good used bits about for peanuts. I wonder when...

Do the indicators give a double flash when locking ?

My dci is the same to be fair, i dont brake hard on the road so the pads are only half worn at best 20k in and discs are a little corroded. I done 70-30 hard brakes a few times in a row to remove pickup and the brakes were massively improved. Needs a long road to do it in a 65hp dci lol.

When the Extra is done the Kangoo will be getting a power increase?

New engine stripped and cleaned up for the Extra. C3j non turbo as same block & crank as gtt, with 38k on it probably 10x better condition than any gtt block. Head gasket had rotted on number 1 cylinder but not aproblem as not using the non turbo pistons and liners. Crank and block are mint...

Winter clean for the Kangoo last week. Not moved for last couple of weeks roll on better weather so can get it back out on track.

Sll you can do is check to see if the sliders are seized. They never wear even, if you have done 20k on them cant complain, budget for a new set of discs when pads are down.

Looks spot on. What happened to the rear diff, was it making clunking noises ? A mate of mine had a saloon m5 same shape and the diff was making a bit of noise, fearing a big bill he moved it on.

I would be going elsewhere for belts to be done if they are claiming its a hard job to change the front shocks. Its not too difficult to change them, can leave hub in situ.

I have wanted to go for years if you find any info post it up?

Central locking solenoid probably shot or wiring issue at a guess

Glowplug light of doom, i bet its been on before and seller was hoping it would not reappear. Should have got half the money back and fixed it prob nothing too bad if it starts up ok from cold

Pic deleted, i swear the uploader on android has a mind of its own?

Small updates Engine on engine stand and part stripped. Just waiting for payday as usual? got a few tasty parts in stock though ready for rebuild.Kangoo mot last week, went through no bother. Been using it for daily driver and going well, 35mpg all the time. Heater is absolutely scorching in...

White led conversion looks great, tempted to do my kangoo dials now

How many miles has it done, might be due a clutch. Change gear oil for elf, will defo need doing if not done before.

Mad i always thought the mk3 dci would be as good as mk2 on diesel, weight difference?

A little bit of condensation out of the exhaust is expected in these low temps so if only a bit of white smoke normal, if its blue and dense expect a turbo swap soon ish, still easy and cheap to do

Normal non sport airbag goes straight on, exactly the same on non cruise wheel.

Imagine getting stuck in traffic on a hill, Ap 4 puck plate, normal length clutch arm, solid engine mounts & rough idling due to a wild cam fitted, awful situation which resulted in a bit of smoke off the clutch and premature knee wear?

Cheap clutch? Ive only ever had issues when using cheap no brands tbh. My valeo is still light in my Kangoo after a few thousand miles

Holding the lock button just sets the raid door locking with the beep, probably coincidence. I changed my ecu/uch set and had the red immobiliser ligt on for no reason, few turns of the ign and it went off as normal and fired up. Its also easy to knock the small 4 pin relays in engine bay...

The reg is in tank on single pipe setup, must be a late ph1. Pump prob well past its best at 120k, pull the sender out and check the gauze at the bottom is not blocked up with crap

If it has a return pipe on the fuel rail it should have a regulator on the fuel rail, if single pipe its in the tank.

Dont remove the cam cover it holds the cams in place, your in for a whole world of pain if you start undoing them bolts ? It soulds like its going lean as feck to me. I would be looking at checking the pump & fpr are working properly. Stick a wideband afr gauge and sniffer clamp in tailpipe to...

Parts prices went supersonic a while back. Original sized 195/55/13 are only available from vintage tyres now at £££ Still plenty of 185/60/13 around though which is next best & a few semi slick options. A048 or R888R are both decent, can get the power down quite well with 200+ hp in the dry.