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nah......i dont think old craig could of got the number of notches on his bedpost just in wales..........must be an thing for people outside the 'boarders'.
from a 2.0ltr its physically impossible to get that.........even dave himself says that you'll peak at 96lb.ft/ltr.
235lb.ft at 6500rpm is 290hbp.............i think not sorry.
where on an F20 in NA trim will you get 235lb.ft!
I did a stock engine into a that corolla and got 252bhp......but nowhere does the honda engine get near 200+lb.ft torque!
For the cost of the work, on a 1.6........gains are minimal.
The K4M has a plastic plenum and ally elbow, so matching can only be done on the lower part, and that plenum really is s**t. Gains are again restriced and nothing like the 2ltr delivers.
And with remapping now, you want to make...
Correct, you need adjustment.
If the day is cold or wet, hot or dry, you can adjust the bias between front and rear to get things more stable, understeery or oversteery depending on the circut and its charateristics.
Bring a pyrometer to test tyre temps and spread and you can adjust to...
Yea, i understand, no worries.
Problem is i'm highly anal about suspension components and geometry, which is why i dont offer the service......i think i would piss off customers.
Thats my point! :D
The 28 point adjustability on the ledas allows you to specifically keep a harmonious bump/rebound damping ratio whether you are at the softest or hardest setting. UNlike shimstack setups which use the flexing of shim washers as valves, they are setup to work over a narrow...
I think what everybody is missing the point here is subjectiveness.
He is going tracking, and the H&R's just arent stiff enough.........period........if your a serious tracker. Superb daily coilover, and probably the best for the road.........but not the track.
As for all these...
Leda.......i run them on my daily cars.
The benefit unlike other shocks is that their 28 point adjustment does not alter the compression/bump ratio across that range. Whereas other dampers will only have the correct 'ratio' in the middle ground of the damper settings. Hence why they are...
And not understood by the clockwork generation ;).
Its all about the chassis.......in the states they are running 11 secs on NA engines........UK are just road cars which utterly suck for 1/4 miling.
The cars might suck, but the engines are possibly the best production 4 pots around.
The TypeR engine is superb........please dont compare it to the 20v vag unit.
However, EP3 and EG chassis arent crap for 1/4 miling, even with alot of power they go nowhere. Not to mention none of the engine builders for them in the UK are any good ;)
vems is full management, although it will run it and my mate does make 4age kits and its a great budget solution as datalogging, full wideband, loom yadda yadda snore snore........is included for £470.
I'm not pushing it though, there is plenty of stuff out there.....its just cheaper than the...
they sure did! lol
I wouldnt bother swapping from one type or carb to another type of carb, i just dont see a point.
However you can clean up the 45's and sell them for a pretty penny since they are the most rare at the moment having only just come back into production with quality...
God i hate this forum at the moment....i type in a reply and it freezes!
As i was saying, you should be able to get someone to modify the dizzy's advance curve, but it will run smoother and with more torque if you have a mappable ignition system.
Dont know what ignition system you are running at the moment, can it be adapted or do you actually need a new mappable system?
Lumenition..........nah, there are better and cheaper about.
RPM range.....like you say, if you run out of puff there is no point.....but the engines are capable...
RAW bought the rights to the striker now i think, and they are 4age specialists so they tend to throw them in most of them.
I'd plump for the quality of a caterfield if it was an option, people might like to ignore the fact and call it brand snobbery, but they are better.
And go car...
personally, if it were me...........
I would get some cams and pullies, rev to 8000 minimum (4age's can take it, my mate sits at 9000rpm on his stock engine all day long) and setup the carbs and ignition properly. If you move to injection it might run a tad nicer and smoother in some areas...