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I know, my bad. I will try and make the next one. I finish work at 5 and im 30mins away from home, then change and get to the ace which is 50 mins away. Lot of rushing around.

I meant to reply yesterday, I cannot make this unfortunately :(

If you want a better guide with pics then I'll do it tomorrow as I'm not on the laptop atm. Hopefully ive kept all the pics, which I think i have.

Yes bud. Remove the front bumper. Undo the 3x 13mm bolts holding the cannister on. Unclip the pipe from the lid to the back of the inlet and remove. The pipe runs past the upper engine mount. These 2 are now obsolete. Cable tie the other pipe to the underneath of the chassis, so it can...

I still have no light and no ticking noise. All is good :) I've looped a pipe from the back of the inlet to the front and kept the lid plugged in but put a bolt in it, otherwise it ticks away. I have had zero issues since this thread back in August last year :)

http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/details.php?itemid=197&model=6

Some great pics there buddy. Looks like a great little adventure trip you had. I really like the derelict subway one.

Stock wheels were 16" and I thought they was 195/45/16 on 172s and 205/45/16 on 182s. Ph1s had 195/50/15. This is the preferred tyre size for people putting 15" wheels on.

I'm sure I read on here a thread about it once but cannot find it now. I know theres a few different ones (tuner list, auditorium, etc) but what is the difference between them all and what is the best one to have? Do certain things only work on certain ones, ie: cd changer, tunepoints, etc...

@MarcR™ That's he's trophy above so I'm sure he'll have a few more pics at different angles.

I'm a 15" fan. I can guarantee that if you look at a lot of fast road and track clios, 99% of them will be on 15's.

May try and get to this also.

This with no spacers should be good. I'd imagine your current spacers will rub with those wheels otherwise.

I actually prefer the ride on 15s too.

For the price and noise factor, the fatty kit is worth it.

Swap to 15" bud. I've read what your plans are so 15" are better for your need. Plus tyres (fast road and track) are cheaper.

Arne you on about J&R? If so, they come with the shaft, CV joints, and are a straight swap. Mine was £50 delivered next day.

Back in the game!!

Cars looking great Andy :) Loving the valve caps also ;)

Id be selling the clio out of the 2. /end.

Good turnaround on the headlights.

When I've done it before (not on a clio) I used 2x cans per wheel.

No worries Tom. Happy to help a fellow Essex RB owner! TPI bolts are good, but the locking wheel ones aren't. They don't seem that strong and rust easily.

Thank you guys :smile: Snappy retrimmed wheel and the interior is pretty much there. I do have another clock bezel to paint as this one has rippled ever so slightly. Most would probably skip it, but i know it's there and it bugs me. I may also change the CD player to a mechless one at a later...

Ordered myself a new keyring the other day. If you know, you know! :openmouth: The car was in dire need of a wash. The farmer had he's jetwash i out, so i used it after him, along with a bucket and sponge. Much better! Then last night i decided to stay after work and fit my handbrake...

No mate, I did it on axle stands but high up. I dropped the decat as the adjuster is above that and the heat shield. Mine was easy to remove buy others have had trouble with the bolts so it might be a good idea to soak them first.

I changed my handbrake cables tonight. Not a bad job tbh. Took plenty of pics too so will update tomorrow probably.

It's no bother mate. My bumper is (kinda) quick release. I'll get a pic tomorrow sugartits.

I can get pics of how mine is if you want?

The resistor trick didn't work for me. I had this problem as I didn't really want the lid there but by keeping it connected and blocking it up with a small bolt worked a treat and has been fine so ive left it as it is.