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Honesty mate if you use the car regular on the road then just bang a set of Ferodo premier OE in, they're only £20 and are the best out of the other OE manufacturer's (brembo, pagid, mintex, Bosch etc...) Then have the aggressive pad for track days.

Was gonna say just take it out and see how it feels before ploughing more money and time into it. You should get it ready for Aintree on the 1st of October as its a great day for beginners as there's a novice group.

Looking good, presume you've not had it on track yet?

I'm with Mark on this, the CL5+ aren't the best when at on full attack on track, they faded quite badly on me at Oulton last week, that was with new HC discs, fresh ATE Super-gold fluid and fogs removed to aid cooling. My money will be going on DS1.11 next.

If you detune the f4r it just wouldn't be the same car, not even sure its possible anyway without some custom map. Just add weight as its free and see how it feels, probably best adding it to the rear of the front seats as well. If a 182 so 180hp you'd only need the car to weigh 1200kg which is...

Just get a socket which is a snug fit in the hole and smash it out, if that doesn't work get a screwdriver and tap it out bit by bit, you won't damage the hub.

Decent, presume they do proper corner weighting there?

@BIFCAIDS how much for fitting mate?

I wonder how one would fair against a similar modded R26? Reckon you could easily shed 200kg(inc full cage), etune, decat and intake (300hp/300ft/lb), good coilovers, brakes (they use the ST brakes so DS1.11 or similar) and track tyres. Think the R26 would edge it TBH as the diff in the Mazda...

I'd say move onto something else if you've had it years, could get a ep3 and kpro it with your budget along with other mods like suspension. A kpro'd ep3 will see you near your 200hp per tonne mark with header and intake plus gutted interior.

FLOL, then get some road legal track tyres like Nankang NS2R or Federal RSR, or maybe Toyo R1R

How do you use the car? Balls deep everywhere or is it a work daily with the odd blast?

You'd be better getting some decent part worns like PS3s than having a cheap tyres IMO.

The tax is offset against the really low insurance costs, plus for a hot hatch with 260hp it will do 30mpg as well as a daily so is one of the lower costing hot hatches. Ths silver aero looks really good as well.

All the above look great. Was gonna spend £5k on mods to get it fully track prepared (properly) then stupidity looked at Westfield's and can't believe what you can get for £5-7k... decisions, decisions.

Your best bet is a 172 cup mate as they're the most track orientated from factory. Decent set of light weight 15" wheels (think the 172 cup comes with them anyway) decent track tyres like r888s or Yoko', there's some real part worn bargains on eBay, decent brake discs and pads most use Renault...

The struts just spin mate, tried a drop head spanner with allen key but no chance. Will take it the garage and get them to loosen them with a impact gun.

Still not fitted mine as I cant get the friggin front top mount nuts off, how are you guys who have getting on with them? @coverman @cs_dave @j4mes-c

Sounds good mate, much closer as well. Will give you a nudge when ready to roll....

I'll be going with this... CC 6 point clubman (weld-in) for £1099 fitted....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-5-Clio-Megane-Twingo-MK1-MK2-MK3-roll-cage-MSA-compliant-/152191876253?hash=item236f57bc9d:g:At0AAOSwnQhXoGv~ Not far from you as well.

Me neither, an RARB was next on my list of mods but after a bit of reading I'll be spending my cash on mid-range coilovers like BC's and getting it corner weighted instead, more cash yeah but the CS needs it if a dedicated track car as the OE set up is far to marshmallow like at the limit.

Yep Ferodo premiere OE spec pads are great for the money (£20) and as long as your not the last of the late brakers then they would be fine for mild track use. I used them at Aintree recently and they were brilliant and didn't fade all day. Aintree doesn't have hard braking zones mind so thay...

As @Tommo. says its a piece of pi$$ if you have the correct tools and the nuts come loose without rounding off. My advise soak them for 2-3 days before twice a day and then attack it. I could of just got mole grips on mine but just lost interest once the first nut rounded. I need new hard lines...

11mm for most brake lines on the CS.

Are you planning on track time at OrigineRS with RS3's on?

33f/31r here and are fine for normal road driving, get them hot and they will melt in minutes on road or track. Remember they're designed as a rain tyre, NOT a max performance summer tyre. For me they work great on soaking track days and on my non-performance daily, I couldn't be happier with...

Defo need some flare nut spanners, changing my abs pump recently without them was fun...

Yeah received mate, thanks for that. The lady at the counter when i picked them up said the postage will have been expensive, if so mate let me know the difference and I'll fire it over.

Well mine attempt failed before it started, rounded of the first nut, lol. The rest of the brake line is rusted as well so needs a full new line making up.

Snap, doing my lines today as well and the NSR hard line from caliper to flexi as its rusted to s**t. For the front lines unscrew at the bulk head first then once free undo at the caliper, reverse when fitting. Not sure on the rear but pressume its the same process. Get rid of the black tube of...