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If you delete the compensator it will just go to 50/50 or more rear bias than with the compensator as there's nothing regulating the bias from the M/C, you'd need a bias valve fitting for sure. It would just be like pulling the ABS fuse on the 182 which isn't ideal TBH as the rears lock up first.

Not always mate, just changed both of mine and it's still the same.

Bend the rear hangers to lift the rear pipes. To find out where it's blowing look for drips of condensation on a cold start.

Yeah went to school with Lee, top fella and really genuine guy. He needs to get that meg on track as it's a beast.

I'll get some footage up later on...

I run 2 sets of 15s. 1 set with Rainsport 3's for driving to and from the track and when it pissing down with lots of standing water, the other is wrapped in r888s and these can be used in all conditions apart from it pissing down with standing water. Set of RS3 of eBay is something daft like...

Rainsport 3s

Yeah it will kick in the wet, just lacking in the dry.

CL5+ pads on HC discs, can't get it to kick in, in the dry even on road tyres. Is this normal? Brakes feel OK coefficient wise and stop pretty well and are all wearing evenly it just feels like the system is lacking pressure, pedal feels spongy as well but has been bled many, many times.

They are an improvement in terms of bring the stick closer to you once bent back slightly, really you need a Yanoo stiff kit as in my experience the shift becomes even more sloppy than the OE set-up, and a missed gear is always a shift away.

What do you want info on a PMS or Scenic?

Thanks to @Archtronics for the above site. Just ordered a Dell inspiron 15 3000 6GB RAM, 1TB, i3 processor with 3 year dell warranty for £300. https://www.europc.co.uk/dell-inspiron-15-3558-118216.html#

Done Australia then jibbed it off! Only do time trail and online, the latter though is terribly unreliable and crashes all the time. Great game when on track racing but all the bits in-between are just laborious.

F1 2016

ATE 24.0741-1129.1 is what's stamped on the one I got from Renault parts direct and here it is on Amazon for £30... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0068MHC8M/?tag=cliospnet01-21

That eBay one will 100% not work. The OE Renault part no is 6000073527 and is £115 from Renault parts direct but I sourced a blueprint OE spec one for peanuts. Leave it with me...

Get the car mechanically sound then all that is really needed is track tyres, track orientated front pads, decent fluid and you're ready to go. Spend money on track time and build the mods as you go. Power is the last thing you should worry about, just lighten further for more power to weight.

Injectors don't always throw up a eml, oh and don't rely on a snapon to diagnose your issue. Been there done that spend 100s. If it's not hesitating then doubt it's an injector tbh, if it's been run on premium fuel then you've put in cheap supermarket/standard 95ron fuel that should be the issue.

M factory diff, seems pretty reasonable price wise.

Think he sold his last one recently...

Are they not bump stops to cushion the boot lid?

Absolutely useless with laptops and need a new one. Will the below suffice? Only used for basic tasks so no need for an expensive one...

Was gonna say that I've just fitted them with new dampers and the ride quality is great on the road, much better than the old cup springs and dampers. Maybe try replacing the dampers and see how it feels then and if you're still not happy get the Eibach springs.

How come you think the Apex springs are rubbish?

I'll let you know when mate.

+1 Mine will be coming out soon, you can have it for peanuts when I do and its mint.

I honestly couldn't care about the looks of my cars (obviously owning a i3), only time I'd be envious is if it was quicker in terms of serious engine mods. Mine looks like a shed but goes like stink, wouldn't have it any other way, just makes going past cars 20 x times the price on track that...

Probably knocked or damaged the sensor when fitting the new brakes, try spraying it with some contact cleaner and make sure its gapped correctly like the others, could also be the brake pedal sensor try resetting this as well. If that doesn't work get it on CLIP diagnostics which will tell you...

You'll be needing springs as well, you could get some lowering springs, camber bolts and get it set-up properly which would really sharpen it up.

Saturday or Sunday in December