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i have done one of these back in the day , with parts and labour being expensive nowadays approx £1200-£1500 all inc as suggested you prob be better off with a second hand engine and fit a new belt and kit on that. everybody likes cheap at some point in there lives and that time is now here

if you got a poor contact at the starter motor big wire that will be a poor contact point for the power to the alternator aswell ie poor contact = high resistance = low voltage. volt drop the wire at 3 points. too be tested with a fully charged battery 1st posotive terminal too starter...

i been down changing,engine braking,rev matching in my little renault 5 van for 13yrs and i still got the gearbox no probs so far

Kev 1 quality reply i agree

Carlos iv'e sent an e/mail too my mate about this today, should have a reply tomorrow. I will keep you posted

38 - 172 Ph1 , Scenic diesel , White van

Pm'd you luke

got my 888s from camskill very good guy's not got em on the car yet being painted black nxt week post pics when done

ive seen the spare wheel full of water on my clio i got no sunroof so i recon it was coming thru the rear lamps into the spare wheel.also it runs along under the rear seat and into the rear footwell, also yes as mentioned the centre drainage tube gets blocked as mine did last year, came back...

have you got the 4 digit code then for the imob, why cant i see the ring around by the key barrel that plays a major part

Brembo Max or HC in combo with Ferodo DS2500 and maybe some braided lines. thats the way forward franx

Found this on another site

i have a Ph1 also and recently i had a rattle when pulling away, i located it to be the left rear head rest rattling in the guides, i adjusted it higher and the noise went. Hope this helps

It eventually arrived but spot on Dan R

i had anthracite first and when i went too get them refurb'd it was difficult to match the colour, so i chose black from there on as black is alot easier to match in the future see here http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk281/barnesautos/DSCF0989.jpg anthracite got no pics yet of the black...

with reguards to the cutting out i am sure on the left front suspension leg under bonnet there is a inertia cut-out switch which just need resetting , it cuts out the fuel pump circuit , just a ball bearing on a spring loaded seat , pust it downwards start the engine and hey presto it should run.

yes

on the side at the end of the 5th gear cover near the left driveshaft, unplug the connector and touch the 2 terminals together with the ignition on and see if they work , if so a new switch is required , if not check for 12volts at the wire

if its a knocking sound , check the wishbone bushes where it meets the subframe, elongated holes come too mind, i remember seeing something on another thread.

see how much gas come out when the a/c guy drains it and then you will know how much it was low by. The clutch can kick in for a quantity of 10%-15% of gas but you wont get any cold air with that amount

the fuse is to protect the circuit from burning, if the fuse keeps blowing as stated it could be the resistor pack/motor at fault ,but do check for water damage to the plug at the connection point at the resistor. hope this helps

fuel filter/pressure check those also guys very overlooked

ive had similar problems , only occurs when really hot mine does. Its the throttle flap spindle, when the fault occurs again pull over and just turn the throttle to the rest position and it will idle normal again confirming the idle valve is ok. If the throttle is 100% on its rest stop and...

Try checking the relays first ,might be stuck on, make sure they are not causing the short circuit had a few of them at work

when it comes to un-doing these pipes on the rack there is two options First you need a special 17mm and 19mm snap-on deep socket with a cut-out of the socket works a treat if you can get your hands on them. emagine a brake pipe spanner has a cut at the end, the socket is obviously a longer...