Search results

if your sure its the small end, it might be cheaper to rebuild. someone like Dan could confirm this im sure.

private or dealer?

Sorry I cant hear what your on about. that sounds normal to me... (will have another listen). Edit - ok after another few listens, I can just about hear something that sounds like a worn alternator bearing (something like a worn and dry ball bearing race).

that's a reflection of a door lol. you need glasses!!

must have just spun a shell then, or I suppose a valve could have dropped a bit (they normally fully drop though).

+1, my mk1 went when it was starved of oil, be interesting to know if yours has just gone or if its gone due to something else like no oil.

has it got oil in it?

Its a sticky injector I expect. Easy to test, start the car, then unplug the power cable going to each injector 1 at a time, reconnecting each one every time. If you find that when you unplug 1 it makes no difference, then its likely to be that injector that need replacing (as you have changed...

what mods has it got on it though? Very much doubt a standard 172 will pull 179.3 on accurate rollers.

ah ok. Thanks all :)

if they are required, does anyone have the part number? Many thanks.

First off, for home cinema you will want a AV-amp with at least 5.1 surround sound. Again, for cinema, the super high end class A amps you would expect to use for a dedicated audio setup is not required. Something like a Pionner, Kenwood or an Onkyo is absolutely fine. Personally I would go for...

thanks, I need to do mine and would have never thought about doing it that way!

glad you sorted it :)

Just seen this picture posted in another thread which shows the rear brakes with what appears to be end cap on it; mine doesn't have these, are they required / should I get some new ones? If so, are they for the rears only or should they be on the fronts as well?

wheel bearing. could be the front or the rear, probably on the left side though as extra load is put on that side when turning right.

video as promised...

what the little plastic one?! that's not a good ground.

yes they will seem similar, 10hp isn't going to be that noticeable. Point stands though, 182's are more powerful than 172's, so its unfair to compare the OPs 172 to your 182 which also probably has a decat etc. 160 is on the low side (as I said before), but its not un-common for the 172s to be...

so yours still made 15hp more than him no?

they are more powerful yes. Like I said, the 4-2-1 manifold helps a lot.

yours is a 182 thought not a 172, so would expect 10hp more anyway just from the 4-2-1 manifold. 160bhp for a 172 with no mods is not un-common.

£50 for the decat pipe (self fitted), £150 for the programmer + unlock, £40 for the map.

yeah can be used with any exhaust provide you have a decat! This is Aarons car on the RR with the p&b map (and what made me decide to get it as well lol). going to take some video of mine later if I have time.

I would bin that second one. First one looks good. A little low but ok. Torque curve could be smoother (2 large dips there and seems to drop off quite a bit on the end).

I +1 this, got mine sorted today as well. Great fun :)

I just got the p&b map, its awesome :) it doesn't activate for normal driving so you don't sound like a knob going thought town ect (provided you keep the revs below 4K which is easy).

when my cat got a hole in it, I filled the gam with a screw/bolt and welded it up with an arc welder.

aww I was close!

I didn't realise there was a difference between the cup/non-cup driveshafts. Do you know how they differ? (i.e. is it length or steel grade etc).