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quite simple really put a screwdriver on a ridge and push down, done it many of times before. dont have to pierce it or anything just dints it in a little. Bit extreme saying itl get metal in the engine dont know how it would cause that. Still got the extra tenner to spend to ;) lool
i believ the problems with fastchip and dan were sorted in the end might be worth pming him for more info though. But that henk guy seemed like a good lad when i spoke to him
Honest opinion. Very easy job to do (theres guides dotted around on the website). I removed the acoustic valve and took off the cold air feed going to the box (stuck a panel filter in at the same time). Im sure there is a little extra grunt init especially at the high revs and its a little...
You could buy the hardware/software from fastchip i believe, from what iv heard his stuff is good. much cheaper than that aswell you also have the added bonus of being able to do others/check for faults engine detials etc... search for fast chip will bring up lots of info
Im sure there is a switch somewhere which adjusts the idle to up, when the demister/air con is activated i cant help where though sorry never changed one. But there will be someone on here who does.
Test it yourself, put the voltmeter on the batter when the engines running if its working correctly i think you want about 13.5 - 14.8ish Too high or low means its probably your alternator
Its very common for these to brake, mines broke and i think there about 35 quid to replace. If you search i remeber someone did put a part number and exact price up.
Mines off, havnt noticed a difference either way to be honest just let the fuel vapour vent and block it at the plenum. You have to just leave the solenoid plugged in otherwise it will throw up the light. £44 seems alot
See both your points here, i dont think getting water near a electronics is a good idea full stop. But what i would like to know is why do you always feel the need to argue with people about GDI jesus? Like very company they have the good points and bad points. but for some reason you dont wanna...
I would have thought it would be able to, would be interesting to see if these maps that people pay 300 quid for are any different to these generic ones this come with (grpn)
Hmm really hard to diagnose without actually seeing the car, if your looking at it tommrow id check all the basic things fuel/air delivery/sparkies leads etc etc.... Sorry not much help i know, could be something internal in the engine. hard to say.
Another disadvantage with foam is the fact that they are soaked in oil much more so than the cotton type filters (assuming just because they absorb more?). This can screw electircal components but doesnt seem to have any adverse effects on the clios that i know of. Be also interesting to know...
undo it a few turns while the cars on the ground. It will be much easier than trying to do it jackep up. Give it a blast of lube the night b4 also same with rears
I suppose you have to settle for airflow V filtration. Better airflow the more crap the engine will suck in. Although to be honest does it really matter about particles this small? I have never been a fan of those HKS Jap pieces of crap tho..
Im not sure how you can say the exhaust is pants. There would have been lots of money invested into making the best system (cost, airflow etc...) Granted you can probably get better but I doubt that the gains are worth the money. Plus youv got a horrible noisy exhaust to put up with. Stick with...
Hmm well i would go for a Green or ITG panel filter dump the acoustic valve and carbon canister. Then if you wanna keep the stock exhaust i would just fit a decat (not a great deal louder). Also not hard to fit. (stock exhaust on a 182 is very good for airflow anyway) Then maybe a remap seems...