Search results

Few little updates, replaced the inlet bolts with some stainless steel bolts and managed to get hold of a Forge intake pipe. Very happy with the engine bay now, on the look out for some ktec engine and gearbox mounts. Finally got round to fitting the cup washer bottle I bought but for...

Have a look on the manufacturers installion guides as sometimes there is ways to remove the buckle if not score the threads with a knife and pull them out and use a lighter to seal the end.

Yeah when a mate of mine bought his from there before removing the plastic film we used a scribe tool to cut off a border then painted it so that when removed the film completely we were left with a black border. Worked well but was a lot of hassle, you also need a certain type of paint for it...

What rear windows you going for? I'm tempted but want some with the black borders.

https://www.schroth.com/en/segments/racing/service/installation-instructions.html?file=files/schroth/pdf/installation-instructions/racing/EA_8-2__2014-11.pdf A lot to take in I had to read it a few times to fully understand it all.

Dead easy mate! There's a sticky in the guide section on how to fit harnesses.

You should be able to click them in one at a time, that's the case with my 6 point TRS harnesses. Stay away from eBay and other sites a like as there's lots of horror stories on fake harnesses they can cause more damage than not wearing one, there's a video that demonstrates what can happen. If...

I asked the same questions a few month ago, and the only option I could think of was to send it to somewhere like EFI. I just cut back the cables I wasn't using such as airbags, radio, heaters, aircon, speakers and esp taped the wires and then removed the fuses so there wasn't any live cables...

I just want this for day to day jobs and I'm going to get a more powerful impact gun which will be 1/2 drive. I know I could just use a step down but one of the main reason I like the sub impacts is due to them being small and using a step down just adds extra length haha.

Just picked myself up one of these https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p50505?table=no very cheap considering most places are still selling at the £100 mark. My mate has one and it's perfect for most jobs, rated up to 130Nm so good enough for removing wheels. Picked up a M12/18 charger and battery...

Got the engine bay sorted yesterday, very happy with the outcome, still need a few little bits and pieces to finish it off but it's still a massive improvement! Ordered some new intlet bolts as a couple of mine were missing, some new rad nuts as mine are rusty, want a matching Forge elbow to...

Started removing my carbon canister when I got in from work the other morning and it has turned into a full engine overhaul Removed the intake to get them cleaned up and made a start on cleaning the cam cover ready to paint. When I get a full day I'll get the engine mount off, clean and paint...

It's a cap so 12mm would mean external I guess if it was a 12mm plug it would fit.

The bore dia is 12mm and outside dia is 16mm mate.

Yeah I've stripped mine back it's definitely not 12mm it's much bigger need to find my vernier and order a new cap

Top man! I did see that but thought the pipe looked bigger than 12mm

Deleted my carbon canister today but unsure what people fit on the inlet side? I read on here I need a 12mm silicon cap which I ordered but there's nowhere to put it I'm guessing 172's are different to 182's. I'm thinking I could just remove the metal barb bit out the hose and blank it with a bolt?

I put a bead of silicon on the face on the plate to keep it water tight just some water resistant stuff which is suitable for external use. Then gave it a coat of underseal, this stuff http://www.screwfix.com/p/hammerite-vehicle-underbody-aerosol-seal-black-600ml/6221h Yeah the same plates but...

Once I'm finished building it I'll probably sell it so be ready

Drivers side was fine, but there's brake pipes next to the inner passenger side. I just moved them out the way and put them back in the clip once finished. I drilled them about 1" back from the cross member and 6" apart using the hole in the photo as a C/L.

Really happy with how it sits!

Thank you! Looking forward to sorting the engine bay out, might take a load of stuff to get powder coated to tidy it up. Once the hoses are on I know I'll end up doing it

So it's been a while since I last updated this but that doesn't mean it's been forgotten about, been sourcing and buying parts and finally made a start on fitting them. First up was some 3" TRS 6 point harnesses, after reading the Schroth guide I went on to mount my anchor points for the crutch...

Use the M10 bolts it will take 2 mins to slightly open the hole in the subframe. Using a M8 for an anchor point is bad in it self never mind using a washer to stop it from pulling through.

So use high tensile bolts etc but then use the incorrect size bolt seems like it's defeating the point of safety haha. Personally I wouldn't want to use anything smaller than a m10 for an anchor point for harnesses.

Yeah I know the hole in the b23a bracket is 12.2mm M8 is too small. Yes itl fit, but wouldn't say it's say it's safe.

I have no doubt they will work but just going off what they recommend as the bolt hole is something like 12.2mm so M8 is a bit on the small side.

If you decide to use the Scroth b23a bracket you'll need to use a m10 bolt for that, which means you'll need to use a round file and open up the slot in the subframe.

Bolts - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p18043?table=no Washers - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p94063?table=no Spring washers - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p48472?table=no You'll not find them cheaper either!

Just a heads up Toolstation is the best place for high tensile bolts and nuts etc get 10 for around .72p, come in handy resealable packs as well.