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I love mine but get sick of tripping over it when I'm in the garage or when I almost stand on it and have to throw myself out the way.

Noticed my side lights/dash/rear lights come on automatically when I turn the key to position 1, first thought was to deactivate auto lights but this doesn't work. Tried it after one beep and two with no luck. My cars fully stripped and the light/rain sensor as been removed. Any ideas on how...

Correct

As mentioned, won't have any effect on your NCB. Since the OP was worried about how long it takes before you can drive your car, I think it's worth mentioning that they will travel and fit a new screen at your workplace.

I had a slight leak from mine and couldn't get one of the bolts any tighter, I ended up putting a couple washers in to compress the spring a little more. I did it on my own on axle stands, get a 1/4" drive ratchet, small extension, deep socket and uv joint put it on the bolt going in from the...

Had to pop to a mates garage so got him to knock me a pipe up whilst I was there. All sorted now thanks. That does look like a better solution if I was removing the rack but looping will do the trick. Thanks

The fittings in the steering rack that need looped are M12x1mm so I've ordered brake pipe fittings for 3/16" pipe. The holes your talking about get plugged. Ah brilliant mate I ended up ordering it so should get it within the next couple days. It includes a pipe cutter. Cheers

I have everything you need if you haven't got sorted yet.

Need to make up a pipe to loop my steering rack. Looking at this kit on eBay as I'd rather buy something to do it myself. Just wondering has anyone got any experience of using a kit like this? Thanks

Getting the hacksaw out then haha cheers mate!

You could run a hose from the bottom of the block which goes to the rad straight to the thermostat. There's a thread on here you'll just need approx 500mm of 19mm straight hose with a 180 deg bend and joiner. I have some straight hose and joiner as I bought it to do the same but ended up fitting...

Did you manage to get the fittings out with the rack and subframe still in place? Even after cutting the pipes.

I'm going EPAS also, stripped down the alternator, AC and PAS pump off yesterday. Need to tackle the hoses on the rack next had a quick go and not sure it's possible with the rack in place think I'll either have to drop the subframe or unbolt the rack. If I lower the subframe I'm going to fit...

How did you go about removing the power steering pipes off the rack? About to tackle mine in the next week. Making fast progress with this!

I've just bought the brackets for a Clio 172 cup alternator setup which includes the top bracket, bottom bracket and tensioner bolt. Can I use the bolts that my current setup uses or will I need cup ones? If so can some help me out with part numbers can't seem to find anything on here or...

I did look there my problem was I have Forge coolant hoses and the pipes from the thermostat open out to 25mm so I needed to reduce it down to 13mm for the heater. I could of used a series of reducers etc but wanted to keep the amount of joins to a minimum. I knocked up some 25mm>13mm reducers...

This is my setup finding the correct fittings etc was a bigger job than you'd think, ended up making my own reducers at work. Need to buy some ducting for the vents.

Did you drain all the fluid out of the part that's been looped and grease inside the bit you've bunged up?

So is what I'm saying correct? Or instead of draining the part that get looped just leave what's left inside?

Rather than starting a new thread I'm going to bump this back up... When looping the rack I'm I right in thinking you drain out all the PAS fluid out the side being looped and pack the pinion side with high temp grease and bung the holes? I hear some people fill it with fluid and some...

You don't happen to know if they do corner weighting and camber adjustment do you?

Looking for somewhere local to get my track car aligned and cornered weighted. I know Revolution is local but from past experiences I would rather go somewhere else. Needs to be Newcastle area. Thanks

Thanks @JamesBryan Yeah I've still got plenty black and a couple sets of silver. They look much more professional than them JDM style bands and probably do a much better job with them being mounted to the chassis.

Got an email through saying when you buy three sets you get an addional £20 off your trade discount. I got sets of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 for £80. I know their box tool kits include quite a lot but these include more in each range and I'm not fussed about having imperial sockets.

I ended up buying the drill and impact driver for £175 as it came with 2 batteries one being a 4ah and charger was supposed to be £250.

Here's how I wired my phase 2 hazard switch into a toggle I got from Halfords Pink = supply Black = load

I'm just jealous! Your welding looks really good for only a few weeks practice I've done stick, mig and tig in the past but nothing serious. Are you using a shielding gas or gasless?

Do you like welding by any chance?

I've ordered a hole saw so when I finish it off I'll be drilling a few holes behind. I might even put a port next to the number plate recess to increase the air flow.

Where did you get your fibreglass panels from? I quite like the grey colour they come in. Do you have to drill your own holes etc or so they come pre drilled?