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The tools lock the cams and the crankshaft in the correct position as there are no timing marks. To be honest these could be fabricated. the other essential tool is to lock the pulleys in position, I really think the genuine tool is essential here.

No , its quite possible to do yourself,will save some cash, but you will need the proper tools I think, just done mine with advice from someone on here. Wasn't much fun but now I know what im doing think next time will be easier. Would want huge financial gain to do someone else,s though.

Wont be doing the unsprung weight any favours.

Have to agree, my first phase 1 came lowered, just couldn't live with the ride quality, my second afaik is on standard suspension and is ok.

Only a road car, but I may like to increase the power one day.

pms pure motor sport.

Do you have to use the cup setup ?, thought about the pure ms set up instead.

I would rather make the clio faster.

Is it not worth doing before and so prevening the circlip coming out.

Im not familiar with all the g/box codes, would my phase 1 172 benefit from the plate ( that's available on ebay) that bolts /screws on and holds the circlip in, cheers.

Cut my first springs in 1975, done more since, have not crashed or killed/injured anyone else, just needs doing sensibly.

Checking timing is whole lotta agro, explore every other avenue first.

Nothing wrong with cutting springs if its done properly. Ends need to be reformed and they must not dislocate when suspension is at full droop. If these are already 60mm shorter then its probably a no to further shortening.

If you are looking for a second hand g/box, always on ebay, parts for sale on here, even a wanted ad on here.

Don't fancy the new pms ones ?? (pure motor sport)

Not the quietest of cars inside anyway, suspect any stainless system is going to be noisier than the original, which is as quiet as you,ll find

I removed everything except the underdash stuff and the pump/compressor? on my 1st 172, meant to fit the cup setup but never got around to it. Must have run it for a few months like this, no issues.

As do I, I think but as I never rev over 6500 I haven't seen it come on whilst driving, only when I turn the ign on.

Like the inlet manifold, would like to do something similar, keeping the slam panel, as long as I could keep a decent length intake runner.

Sorry but seems like a pretty good idea to me, fun of a clio with half the price of petrol (once its been converted)

Sure I read on here the earlier models had them, until they ran out and used steel. (mines got one, X reg)

Noticed mine is white, all the other phase 1 box,s ive seen have been black, What do you reckon, a bit of home customising or could it be a replacement box maybe,

Changed the g/box oil, among other things.

Don't know if they have ever been of but I couldn't budge them, decided to knock up a little something, worked better than I hoped. Used a rather large bolt so I could drill a recess in the bottom to stop it slipping of and the welding wouldn't deform the thread,

Be good to have a few metal ones made, no? probably a small requirement for these as old heads get skimmed. might be interested in buying one myself, just in case.

Re: dmallett's indecisive clio thread! Monaco ph2 pg1+, Titanium ph1 pg31+, PB ph1 pg And thanks dan for dropping it of.

Right spun it round 4 complete revolutions (clockwise) pointer has moved slightly but its still in the u shape so I have left it there and nipped up the tensioner nut. I don't have a torque wrench that goes down to 27 nm so I have guessed it and will leave it there unless opinion is it will...

Yeah started out with them loose, but ta for that bit of info, obviously need to move tensioner further. Well went back to it, spun everything round and tried tensioner again, was still tight but suddenly it went loose and moved round to probably just passed 12 o clock but the 2 marks now line...

OK now the bloody tensioner, I understand that the little arrow has to line up with the little "u" cut out, my problem is they don't seem to be moving separately to each other, I definitely had the tab at the back located when I started, turning it clockwise I cannot move it anymore and...

I see in the manual a figure like .7da Nm, meant nothing to me so googled it,, so am I right in thinking that , that figure is actually 7 nm?