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Something I put together a while ago for my PH1, may be of help. Car Power Weight P/W drag coe Rev limit ratio 1 ratio 2 ratio 3 ratio 4 ratio 5 ratio 6 ratio 7 FD Wheel diam (M) Clio 165 1.035 159.42 0.358 7250 3.09 1.86 1.32 1.02 0.79 4.07 0.576 MPH 38.90 64.63 91.06...

I got one of the full chip ones on ebay and it failed after 3 uses. Might have just been rotten luck mind, but did do what I needed it to. Seller was an absolute nightmare to deal with for returning it, people have issues with the install/cracking on laptops and they assume every issue is to do...

Where are you based ? Maybe another mk4 owner local could compare. The trophy is a little different on the mapping front, but downshifts are very uneventful in my experience. All smooth expect the shift down to first when coming to a stop (suspect renault knew this though as the car will old...

When I had my issues I called RCS and they looked after me, they create case for the issue and work with the garage to get to the bottom of the issue. Not all of the dealerships are renaultsport specialists so some of them are not as familiar as some branches may be. In race mode the clutch can...

I too went for the 220 trophy from a ph1, it’s a much easier car to live with, but the engine does not have the character of the F4R (but then not many engines do, the MR16DDT is capable but linear) The chassis on the trophy really is something special, coupled with the much better driving...

I’ve not had any of these gearbox issues with the trophy I’m afraid, speaking from a mechanical perspective - you would get a fair few of these symptoms from worn engine mounts, the lower gearbox mount in particular. If you can get a video of some of the noises, I’ll compare to my own car. It’s...

As above, knock sensor - it's snapped off:

Does indeed, you can sort of see the triangle-ish shape on the chassis and plastic.

The edges of the front bumper are held in with a bolt and clip, unfortunately the rust get's to them and when trying to remove the clip, it snaps the plastic arch. Likely what's happened here, you'd need to replace it or get creative to repair it (a small stainless plate and bolt may do the trick)

The space near the top left triangle in this picture, front left wheel well behind the plastics.

It would be a first to my knowledge re-positioning the pedal, but it should be possible to unbolt the pedal from the car, place a spacer behind it and use some longer bolts. Not a difficult mod assuming the plug into the pedal is long enough.

Yeah it's about 7cm I'd say - hard to get a photo from that angle :) If you wanted to adjust it - it would probably be easier to move the accelerator being electronic, spacer behind the pedal perhaps.

As above my pedal is also higher but no more so than any other car I've drove, just measured the difference on my facelift trophy for you, hope it helps (bottom number is CM) The sport button one is an odd one, you can pop the button out to see if is plugged in.

It should be on the sill kick plates, they only numbered the first phase of the trophy though.

Has anybody used one of these with the F4R ? I've been reading into them recently and I'm curious if they are actually effective, the topic seems to divide opinion and there's not much fact out there in regards to results. Davis Craig make a unit that's 80 L/min at 13V DC, it also draws 7.5A...

After I stripped my 172 it surprised me just how much moisture forms on the inside, specially on the roof. A carcoon would help if you had the cash to splash (https://www.carcoon.com/)

The Akrapovic system does not have a centre, the OEM system does however. I believe the exhaust is fitted before rear beam as a single piece, so you need to cut the centre off to replace, which is a pain for returning to standard. You can get at the rears by removing the 4 larger torques on the...

I wouldn’t personally, at a push run a cheaper oil though and get it hot, drop it and then change for good oil (I use Titan Fuchs/OEM ELF/Millers nanodrive) If it’s using oil there’s a good chance it’s the rings or the valve stem seals in the head.

https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/25610629 This is now on copart salvage

If you find the timing is out, you have to additionally lock the dephaser and exhaust pulleys on the belt side (a tool you also get with the kit) slacken the bolts holding both pulleys onto the cams, adjust at the other end where the horseshoe took is so that it slides in with just a finger...

https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/engine-parts/renault-clio-cam-belt-fitting-tool-kit-f4r/ For the tools if you decide to try yourself, its not too difficult to be honest. https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/engine-parts/renault-cylinder-head-end-plugs-various-models/ Link to...

You’d need the pin and shoehorn tools to check the timing: 1. Remove the bolt on the front of the block near the gearbox casing and get somebody to rotate the crank until the pin is in place (be careful not to insert the pin into the balance holes, it should be a snug fit and go all the way in)...

A handy video from Renault, may need subtitles though:

From what I remember of the snow we had last year, normal is pretty sharp to kill any wheelspin, sport allows some degree of traction break and race it's off. One thing to remember is the E-diff is part of the traction system, so you have it in sport but not in race. That'll have a large impact...

When I had mine in at Renault for 1st service they used similar position to the below, with stands you could use some wood to spread the load.

Ha I'll keep an eye out for you, there's 2 of us in Shields aswell :)

Local to Newcastle by any chance ? There'll be 3 of us LY's in the area if so !

Yeah that was my next thought but I couldn’t figure out how to do it with CLIP, in the end I bolted the airbag ecu to the bulkhead and shortened the cable out the way ha one to figure out another time, along with how to configure the injection computer as mine has no command option weirdly.

I’d recommend the monitor for sure, the main thing I use it for is oil and coolant temps as the blue “engine cold” light turns off far too early in my opinion.

I wrote up a little piece about moving from my PH1 to the trophy (https://www.cliosport.net/threads/retired-the-ph1-workhorse.807187/) The RS monitor is an applet of sorts for the headunit, you’ll notice the RS badge as a button across the top of the touch screen.