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It is if it holds onto the torque for longer?

Am i right is thinking that.. What you really want is MORE torque for longer? Not just a high torque figure at one point that then drops away quickly.

Defo

I personally think it's a mith that this level of pad don't work from cold, they should be just as good as standard)

Iv got them - as said though keep them lubed or they start to stick

Just curious; everyone who won't use part worns because they might be damaged etc. Do you change the tyres straight away when you buy a second hand car?

Hi chaps, Is there any way I can use my climate control display to run my cup blower? I'm quite preparedto cut wires etc. Cheers Sam

Iv had similar problems with KTR solid top mounts - the bearing gets dry and sticks causing the spring to twang when it lets go

Standard top mounts?

Bias valve

Just because of the VOSA advisory That’s not to say your brakes are working correctly, see if there is any movement in the bias valve - if its stuck solid in one position then it needs freeing off. The valve should move on application of the rear brakes and then return when the brakes are...

Its not seized - it just wont return , easy enough to do by hand

Has anyone tryed to uprate/replace/add another spring to the compensator valve? When bleeding the rear of my cup this afternoon i found the brakes only work effectivly when the valve is in the "up" position - set it to that, apply the brakes and they work. But if you release the brakes and re...

Is that standard procedure? It might be worth me having another look before I start

Well if im honest i would have thought that would be an advisory but in not the expert. Failed on : 001 (front to rear) Brake pipe excessively corroded [3.6.B.2c]

Its the pipe that goes from the join near the subframe into the compensator valve - the whole run of the car Are the unions all metric? Cheers Sam

Checked the pipes and this is the only bit i can see... is this what its failed for? if so whats the best way to fix - cut it out and fit a replacement section or change the whole lot?

I have a Clio 172 with a electronic throttle, when I start the car it hunts between 500 & 2000rpm and the throttle pedal is unresponsive Any idea's? It also seems to be intermittent as other times it starts and works fine- maybe an earth issue? Its also worth noting that the car is left...

It will be getting scrapped, the only thing it had going for it was the colour apart from that it was going to be a pain Thanks for the replys chaps

Keeping it standard for now, keeps it cheap when it stops! Maybe in the future!

Really pleased with the dash, brilliant finish to it.The White car will be scrapped when the Silver one is built

Quick update Not got a huge amount more done really, been busy at work and the naff weather hasnt helped! But.. I have got my dash back from suffolk flocking services (try saying that after a few!) Fitted I also had time to fit the seats... And thats all for now...

Is the new rs tuner able to remove abs And airbag lights?

Brilliant thread! looks a great car, had to chuckle though - your engine will cost more than my car has to build! I dont think class wins are on the cards for me lol! :approve: Real top class job

The incompleteness was the biggest problem really, there were so many parts missing and others not attached it was like building a Lego model without the instructions! So getting hold of the silver car was a great piece of luck

Well I need to do some testing with it and get the setup sorted then look at otterburn or eypnt

Ok first project thread! The plan The idea is to build a rally spec clio on a reasonable budget. The first job was to find a part finished car, finish it and add the motorsport tweeks so i bought this: Not a bad starting point, Not perfect and needed alot of work but what i liked...

Any ideas chaps

Can clip remove the abs light when all the pumps and sensors have been removed?

More holes is never good!