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yup, if your engines out do the rack. But there was a thread a week or so ago about this same conversion, i listed all the parts and bits needed. You dont need that much.

I dont know how you recalibrate the speedo! :confused:

its gonna handle so weird with those offsets!

y? the rear doesnt use sprins, and the damper doesnt get in the way.

Just working on the basis that your current wheel is fine as is, so if you dont increase the amount of wheel protruding outwards hen you have to bring it inwards, by taking the 1/2" that would be placed either side.

yea, i made the mistake of putting my palm on the pencil jet.....few thou PSI never hurt anyone....lol

got one....and the small ones suck. The small ones can rinse well enough, but cant spray detergent on in any sort of fashion apart from a dribble. The big trolley carried ones can supply the cleaning mix at a high pressure though, and cost!

were talking about the spring, not the suspension

well, typically, actually, i have never seen a warped disc. Warped means that one side is curved and the other side of the disc follows that curve. This is VERY hard to acheive on vented discs as they just dont get hot enough. What does happen alot is pad deposits are left on teh disc...

no, a 49

90 quid!!! bargain!

minus about 13mil on the rear ET.

Nothing major unless you are prepared to spend some cash.

redline is ok, but service life is short. The recomended Transefl TRX 85w90 is good, and there are other choices, but there is no old box oil.

still need the details mate.

If your interested in a gasflowed head please contact me via PM. The 1.2 16V will respond nicely to some headwork.

Still reccomend the SMT6 for the valver, itll work better and faster than physically swapping a chip on the circut board.

tish. Stepper motor and potentiometer. Or does it only happen when cold/hot? Might be the speed sensor behind the dash.

The Castrol Super Dot 4 is all you will EVER need, Dot 5.1 is pointless, its hy hydroscopic and you will loose efficiency in about 3 months (on a good tight system). Just bleed the brake system with the new fluid, when its not manky and black and the fluid is new, your fine on that line. Just...

SO its your front brakes? The compensator will have no effect, the fronts sould always work. By fluctuating does he mean that DURING the braking procedure the brake effort goes up and down, or during every application (press off the pedal) the braking effor is different.

car?

In this world you pay for what you get. If you want a system that run and extracts 100% from your engine your going to have to spend on it. The superchip system is fine, ive used it, but its not accurate by any means. Its a rough more here....and a tad more there system. They dont really...

how does it differ from any other top mount?

springs are the same the difference in ride height comes from the change in front castor angle.

always nice. Cant really tell as its a photo, but you might want to get some rubber softner on those slicks!

I worked at the only dealer/agent in HK and my car was used as a demo car, and it was also the only car in the place never to go in for a mechanical problem. Only thing that ever happened was a flat, a broken alloy (my fault), new wing mirror (also my fault) and a new oil cap cover which came...

can i say told u so lol. I knew it didnt kick off at 4500 rpm like as per discussed a while ago.

Ivenot had any problems apart from wear and tear on a 117k car.

it can do with some lightning, the revs drop quite slowly on a valver. The CTR flywheel is indeed light, when we built a super production touring car we actually had to ADD weight to teh fly to meet the minimum allowed hahaha!

yes, and a wobbly wheel! hahaha