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My horns are so loud that they cause pensioners to suffer nose bleeds and cute furry animals to explode within a two mile radius - but then I have the fogs and front mudgards removed for ventilation ...
car booked on 30th March .. In the mean time, I may behave as if it IS 46 degrees in London. So if you see a cup driven with the windows down and the driver turning a fetching shade of mondial blue, thatll be MOI!
prob a case of the grass being greener elsewhere. Comparative tests last year showed the contis being much faster on circuit in the dry than other tyres. Anyway, each to his own
Ive kept the contis. better a known evil than a new one and all that. I get them fitted / balanced for £59 a tyre down sarf in London.
You should aim to pay no more than £64 for contis fitted and the same price for pirelli pzeros (which I havent tried)
you dont need the special elbow. My CDA connects directly on the OE elbow, and you have the right SP08 CDA. On the other end, just angle the CDA as near vertical as you can (mines 45 degrees), replace the crap pipe with a proper one and feed it to the bottom of the engine bay.
anybody had this done before? - i.e. is it a quick in n out type job while I wait at reno or theres no such thing (i.e will they need the car for 2 days to take it rallying in Wales as they normally do...)
you can buy a cup racer for £9k if you are interested. the only problem is that you may not be able/willing to pay the min £10/20k a year it takes to maintain/run the car on track.
I know were affected by global warming but this is getting silly. My external temp sensor must have gone a bit wonkey, because the temperaure indicator showed 46 degrees, widely fluctuating, sometimes the temperature display wouldnt even light up. So I guess my external temeprature sensors gone...
£120-£150 for good pads, e.g. Pagid blue, Performance friction 97 or similar. If you want to push the boat out ,braided hoses (£40) and race brake fluid (£15). oh and make sure you tell your passengers every time you are about to brake...
there are two off the shelf TB kits available in France. Either will cost you £4-5k fully fitted and produce 220bhp. You can also buy the entire kit for around £3-4k
Thanks Ben. The info is very useful to try and work out what caused my original problem and make sure it doesnt occur again. after the repairs, we spent 4 hours fully mapping the unichip at all throttle openings. we were monitoring for any knock etc, so hopefully that will prevent any of this in...
Many thanks Jay. Ive also come to the same conclusion. I may not be able to catch the output signal from the sensor, but I may be able to catch the reaction of the ecu, i.e get a signal when the ecu decides to back off the advance. work in progress..
heres the question.
as you know from previous threads, my engine was initially damaged by det caused by a bad unichip mapping that caused too much advance = running too lean = det = changed pistons etc etc.
Now that I am fully ok after mucho ££, I understandably want to be 100% certain we...
scooby stu, if you read frog, I can direct you to a site with a step by step guide including photos etc.
have a look at http://www.rs-team.orgwww.rs-team.org click on "entretien" on the left hand side, then find huile - vidange and follow the steps.
have fun with the oil filter (...)
I have to agree with Rob. Either buy yourself a proper helmet - and I would recommend a full face FIA approved that you can also use on a bike (you will need it for open top cars) or dont buy one and simply pay £10 a pop for renting a good quality helmet on track days. After all, its your head...
thanks Jay do you have more details on how the ecu adjusts the timing depending on the signal it gets from the knock sensor, and how to find out if my knock sensor is working ok?
As the title says, I need some info on the knock sensor fitted to the F4R engine in terms of:
what rpm range or throttle opening does it operate under: 0 to max revs and WOT or does it stop before WOT
does the sensor feed an increasing voltage into the ECU as it senses more vibration and the...
There are 3 wires feeding the coil on the 172/cup, two equal diameter wires which are orange and white and a 3rd thicker wire which is white. Does anybody know which of these is the coil negative?
Thanks
Philip