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every month .. let me know when youre out next

watch out for excessive fuel consumption. It should settle nicely after the first 3k miles. I use Elf excellium 5/40 as supplied by renaultsport for the cup cars, but it costs a bloody fortune. I am sure 10/40 will be just fine.

Hi Ben, yes the pressurised cranckase had us puzzled for a while, until we caught the problem with a proper leakdown test. You should see the state of the piston rings! Anyway, its resulted in a great looking - but now redundant - closed loop oil breather system with cavitation tank and all...

172 Mk1. PM on its way. I guess Renault may not look too kindly on people messing around with their own ECU

Christ: Im locked to my keyboard or what! k-tec SS cat back - nice noise, useless on its own, comes into its own with other breathing mods BMC. same as K-tec: nice noise, useless alone, comes in with other mods unichip: shows how bad the original ecu is. BADLY DONE, UNICHIP OR ANY OTHER...

jeez I hardly finish typing some info and now you want the inside leg measurements too! Right: If you deliver the head and manifold to CTM you can probably get it done for £400-500 depending on the amount of work you ask for. You can also leave the car with them as they have access to a...

responses: on torque, its at 190-195lb/ft. I did have it RRed with the normal ECU when the unichip was originally fitted (before head/cams, after IK/exhaust with 3k miles on) In "normal" guise it was only putting out about 166bhp, and after the unichip 174. I have had access to the standard...

wouldnt necessarily trust the startup blobs. have a look at the dipstick on a flat surface. how many miles have you done since the last oil change?

Hi all, I have a fastish cup used very often on track, but I agree with some of the comments from the V6 guys: Although the power/weight on my cup (200) is probably better than on the V6, thats not how the comparison should be made: the V6 looks fantastic. It is rear wheel drive and you can...

I have a k-tec cat-back exhaust with mid silencer. It used to be boomy for the first 1000k miles around 3.5k -4k revs but has nicely settled in now. Sounds business like but not too loud. I have to keep to 98dBA for track use and without the mid silencer I couldnt achieve that. performance wise...

just change the pads if you really want to do something useful. K-tec have pagids for about £115 or you can get ferodo DS2500 or equivalent.

A garage local to Colin whos also equipped for unichip. It was good fun: Mario at the throttle with his knock sensor headset, Colin at the laptop in the passenger seat and yours truly listening intently for knock. Funnily enough most of the remap was at partial throttle openings where we were...

ok, in order: the power at the wheels is 3k 78, 3.5k 92.4, 4k 117.2, 4.5k 138.8, 5k 152, 5.5k 168, 6k 181.4 6.5k 177.2 max power at flywheel is obviously guesswork, but probably 205-210. injectors are still standard and we have spare fuelling capacity using cams regrind by piper. fast...

yes, but unlike the first few attempts, this time the mapping was done properly . Took us 4 hours but worth every minute.

hello peeps, finally got the cup remapped post head + cams etc, and its developing 181.4 bhp at 6000 rpm - ps. at the wheels - hehe + running ultra sweet

What I have: Koni sports, Eibach sports, geometry fixes (camber bolts front, shims back). Best money I have spent on the car so far.

nice pics. is the ducting heat resistant and do you know a source for cheap ducting. Thanks

you can just change the pads, and if you feel like it use braided hoses and racing brake fluid. There are loads of very good pads available for the 172/cup. I am not aware of a Brembo kit specifically available for the 172/cup without changing to larger diameter wheels.

4.5k yes that sounds a bit low. You just wanted the light to flash more often didnt you!

anybody removed the fogs and fitted cooling ducts to the brakes? If so some feedback on attachment points and maybe piccies would be most appreciated..

very tastefully done. Even renault wouldnt notice. I presume its a high intensity light, enough to get your attention when youre staring at the road

cupboy, a standard cup will give you maximum power around 6k revs and maximum torque before that. shifting at 5.5-6k revs is prob your best bet. On mine its about 5.7k and Ive got another thread going on how best to install a proper shift light. re the cup being a track day special, I am not...

ok thanks. I was interested to know what inputs the unit needs. Typically its +12V, ground and coil. Some units claim to work with 12vdc (cigar lighter only) getting pulses off the alternator. Sounds dubious. As you say the good thing with a shift light is that itll only come on above 5k revs...

pivot baby light? details pls?

thanks for the grommet info.

Ben, I agree I should be able to shift on engine noise, but I would find it easier to get precisely the revs I need with an indicator. Do you have any ideas where to put the wires through the bulkhead?

red lights and vibrating chairs ... I said its for track use ben, not pimping duties

thanks for the coil info. Now all I need is a convenient hole in the bulkhead or way to get the wires into the car. ps: the "shiftlight" on the 172s is not a shiftlight. it tells you when you are about to hit max revs. Waiting to hit the limiter LoL doesnt make for very efficient driving does...

oh since you ask so nicely, its a bit difficult to look at the rev counter while on track and its difficult to judge rpm precisely with my helmet on.. Also, Im a perfectionist..

?? since Ive got your attention, had a chat with Omex who say all I need is 12v, neg ground and neg coil connections. Wheres the coil in the Mk2172/cup pleeez + good suggestions on where to fit the omex + run the wire through the bulkhead. Cheers