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talk to Rene at moteur-huger in Le Mans. He will do you a straight swap for a 300+ bhp V6 if your current engine doesnt have too many miles. Itll only cost you £5k or so. tell him I sent you ...

hi eddd. I am using performance friction 97 pads, same as the racers. Theyre stupendous but they grind the discs like hell - 0.7 friction coefficient ... mind you its a lot cheaper to change discs! I have removed the fogs and I use the previous season ducts (not the 2003 ones that stick out)...

Can anybody recommend a good outfit in or near London where I can have my wheels professionally refurbed, repainted and recoated? ta ver much

Now that a number of people have tried various routes to increasing performance, its a safe bet that £1.5k will get you close to 200bhp, £2.5k or so will get you near 210bhp. You can go beyond that but youll begin to spend considerably more and I imagine that the reliability of the car may be...

well to be fair, I only gave everybody one day notice, but as you say £49(half of £99) aint half bad for an all day open pit lane trackday. ehh well, win some - loose some

any one - bump>?

URGENT - Ive had a last minute meeting come up at work that stops me from attending a track day tomorrow. It is based on an airfield off the M4 and provides a very secure environment and plenty of run off space for beginners and experienced track dayer alike. The booking cost me £99. You can...

I (often) get my contis fitted and balanced at £59 in London

if its coming from behind the engine, have a look at the cranckase breather pipe, immediately below the induction coils.

ok, so Im assuming its been modified: Id work top to bottom and check for oil leaks. First have a look in the inlet pipe that sits between the airbox and Throttle body. There is a pipe that connects into that and for the cranckase breather. If you have a problem with blowby (damaged piston...

difficult to tell without a bit more info. Cant you take the car to Renault for a check under warranty? If youve modified it and youd rather check yourself, I can give you a few tips on where to look. Let me know

depends what youre looking for. If youre after looks, 17" will be better If youre after performance, replace with 15" and sticky rubber ...

I remember seeing this a while ago but couldnt find it through a search. I am looking for a picture of the exhaust system, more specifically of the exhaust manifold collector and where it bends at 90degrees to join the cat. I want to see whats under the heat shield that rubs on the exhaust...

I have the Eibach sportline on my cup. Theyve been on for about 5 months and theyre great. No problems to report. They probably lower the car by 3cm or so and I think they are a better choice than the pros for my specific needs (track). I also have adjustable koni dampers with them

My cars "on cam" all the time. I drive like a slug on the road (well I try) and I take it on track about once a month. Nothing happens at 4k that doesnt happen at 3.5 or 4.5. In fact on track, I keep it between 5.5k and 6k where the power/torque peaks. Before modifying the car, I do remember...

as I said before, and as dogmaul said, there is no "on cam" , vvt stuff on the clio - period - the advance is changed at low revs only to aid with idling.

no such thing as on cam. There is no VVT on the clio. The advance is different at low revs up to 1200 or so to aid with idling and emisions, and then its exactly the same throughout the rest of the rev range.

I also had the same work done, although Im getting 183 at the wheels. In addition to the head itself work was done on the inlet manifold and porting to the head. I probably spent most time/money on that headwork. What cams are you using and what profiles? Presumably youve gone for fast road cams...

dead easy. would sell you mine, but I guess whoever buys my car will eventually want them put back on ..

si, Im running performance friction PF97 pads now. Same as the cup racers.

you can also fit eibach sports (stiffer than the pros). I have them with koni adjustable dampers and theyre great.

I have my original cup pads with about 5k on them. I since upgraded to race pads, so if you want them you can have them for a tenner + postage. I also have a set of Pagid OEM pads with 3k miles on them, you can have those for a tenner too if interested. Im based in London

Filters ! LoL! youre being too complicated... How much more crap could you get through a small airduct than you could get normally with the wheel splashing around in muck.. Basically, no filter - you could add a bit of plastic mesh if that makes you feel happier, but theres no need for it

easy, done it on mine. Take the mudgards off, remove the fogs, remove the front plastic covers (black bits) carefully. Get from R-sports the previous season cup scoops (the new ones with a bit sticking out will not fit). They fit straight in no problem under the black plastic bits that you clip...

do you want the brake upgrade or do you need it. Depending on the answer, there are cheap solutions and there are expensive ones!

why do you think youll spend any less on a cup? It costs a lot to maintain them properly if highly tuned.

youll certainly get a better technical explanation, but in plain English, a cars moving parts (pistons, gears etc.) are designed within certain tolerances. On most mass produced cars these tolerances are wide and can explain performance variations between one car and the next off the assembly...

dont know part numbers etc, but why dont you call R sport in wimbledon, explain what you want and theyll happily sort you out.

any hard pad (i.e anything above 0.5 friction coefficient) is bound to make more noise when braking. Theres nothing wrong with that. I run 0.5-0.7 pads and they were professionally bedded in etc, they still screech in light use in town. Doesnt bother me at all.