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Probably got ditchfinders on it, and will blame everything else under the sun apart from her being a sh*t driver/her tyres being cheap crap.

^Iceberg is a lot bluer than Titanium.

So now you have to have driven something to know whether it looks sh*t or not? Ok.

Yeah takes constant instant readings then works it out over how far you've driven since u last reset it. If you rest it and watch it as you drive it'll jump about a lot till you do a few hundred miles and it'll eventually settle.

Yes, according to here : http://www.carlsalter.com/wheel_fitments.html

I give it two months of browsing CS before you realise the mudflaps need to go ;)

Not true at all IMO. As someone already said, the majority of "different" Clios like the one posted above look complete and utter w*nk. There are a few that have appeared on here that are heavily modified show-worthy cars and are loved by nearly everybody, but they're tasteful and done...

No idea about chassis numbers etc, but all cups/cup packed models came with red brakes and anthracite wheels.

It'll keep reading 31 because it's average mpg, not instant.

195/50s = lower profile than 185/55s = less rubbing.

I'd say you're just going to have to bite the bullet and pay for it yourself, warranty won't want to know as belts/pulleys etc will come under the same category of wear and tear such as brakes, tyres etc. If you're extremely lucky and track down who did the aux belt change you might have a...

Bought, not brought. How do you know for sure it's had the Aux belt changed?

All Ph1s have it on the windscreen because it's not written on the gearknob.

No, they're rubbish, don't ever buy one. Oh wait...

It looks unfinished, stones/dirt/crap get stuck up behind the headlights, behind the skirts, inside the doors. It generally just looks messy without them.

That EK must be an absolute weapon! The fact it's pretty tatty looking adds a bit of sleeper appeal to it aswell. Want.

Never take advice off anybody who types like the above.

The cheap tyres on it would suggest it's been owned by someone who's not exactly an enthusiast, so there's a good chance the belt has been done half arsed by a local garage, that would be the first thing I'd check.

Rubber belts still perish whether they're being used or not. It will need changed in July, the mileage is irrelevant.

The mudflaps and the K-tec sticker need to go.

Leave the Firestones on the front, put the new tyres on the rears.

Re: The car you wish you never sold... What were they? I'd say my first car, my 1.2 Clio. Sentimental value, plus the fact I spent sh*t loads of cash and 2 years tinkering with it and changing bits. I should have kept it and gone nuts with it - respray, F4R, proper stance.

Yup, especially in the summer months, load up the ipod with trance tunes and go for a blast somewhere for the hell of it. The 200 has only got better with mileage so I expect this summer should be good too.

You tell the insurance company what make/model it is etc then tell them what the reg is instead of searching for it using the reg. It's what I have to do as Elephant still reckons my plate belongs to my 1.2, it's been on 2 cars since then.

That and the questions people have asked made me laugh.

It's too wide for a start, so nope it won't fit.

^ You're reading figures from a website that's a load of nonsense, that's why.

Very nice, get a wee white Renault Sport sticker made up for the passenger side dash strip, will finish them off nicely.

Don't worry about the fuel cost side of things. I had a 1.2 Clio then moved onto a 172 which was a bit more powerful/thirsty than average and I barely noticed a difference in fuel costs (that's even though I ran the 172 on super only) probably due to the fact when you're driving at a normal pace...

Re: Regarding Decat-Should my Engine Management light keep coming on once it's taken One solution is - put the light out, take the post cat lambda sensor out and tie it up under the car somewhere so it's reading clean air, plug the hole in the decat with a suitable bolt.