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I had to refit mine today (changed clutch) I think it only fits on one position, so try rotating it as you push it in. Also a smear of grease on the O ring will help it slide in as well.

You havent dislodged something else or split a hose have you?

If the pulleys are all tight and the marks like up you can't have gone too far wrong. I would you had damaged valves you would get less than 175psi, and the cylinders would likely give uneven readings.

Personally I think cone filters sound chavtastic.

Sorry that should have been 1mm less. 😊

I would be tempted to give it a clean, than take the bolts out one by one and put some sealant beneath the top of them.

It looked to be correct. I haven't put anything on, this is the old clutch that I have just taken off. The pressure plate won't fit the other way. :wink: The thickness of the friction material on the old clutch was 6mm less than the one I am going to put in, although it wasn't on the rivets.

It is a bit late, the kit arrived the other day. £41 all in. the tensioners are made in canada although i can't remember what make they are. I will have a go at that job once I get the gearbox/clutch issue sorted. I have all of the parts and tools, just no time to do it. :confused:

As some of you may know from a previous thread I have been having a few issues with my car. There was a noise and a "slipping" in the transmission which started happening as the car was being driven hard, as well as the occsional banging after changing gear and when lifting off and re-applying...

I am pretty sure that if it is pad deposits it will remain "warped" after the brake cools. This didn't it was only occuring when hot but once things had cooled it dissapeared. I replaced the discs with Brembo's and the problem never returned, even though I used the exact same pads. (They were...

I beg to differ, they did warp. The warping occured when braking from high speeds on the dual carriageway, but would clear up once they had cooled down (running at slower speeds but with no braking) Brake material transfer is a different phenomena. I have never had any issues with other brake...

I have had cheap brake discs in the past (Eicher from Eurocarparts) and had brake shudder due to warping when they were hot. Not saying those would be the same, but I think it is better to spend a bit more on some branded ones just in case.

Thanks for that. That's the thing, I have undone one side already. I didn't realise they were fitted until I had taken the first one out. I will have to try and find a measurement on the driver side and set the passengers side the same when it goes back together. if not how hard is a set of...

I have just disconnected the struts on my car as part of a clutch change and I have noticed that it is fitted with camber bolts on the top bolt at the lower end of the strut. Are these standard to the 172 cup or have they been fitted afterwards? As far as I know the suspension is otherwise...

Well just to update on this. I have got the car in bits and the gearbox is about to come off. The gear oil was clean with no traces of metal in it, the driveshafts look ok, and as far as I can tell the diff looks ok. There is evidence that the car has been apart in the recent past. I am...

I am putting a standard one back on as well once I get the other issues with the car sorted. The insurance will be cheaper too as more companies will cover a standard car.

I have a KTR (KTEC) stealth on my car and I don't like it. It is boomy, too loud in the back and doesn't sound all that great. It is the version with middle silencer and back box.

Or just buy a new one? They are less than a tenner on ebay. The crank sensor would also be my guess, especially as the rev counter was playing up.

I had a similar noise on an Alfa Twin spark. It was a knackered big end bearing and a scored crank. :confused: Usually running low on oil, or on some engines having a cambelt snap can cause the bearings to become flat spotted due to the shock of the pistons hitting the valves. If the bearings...

It is difficult to say I can't hear anything. :smile:

I can't hear any sound even with my volume fully up.

Might be one of the engine mounts.

I am certainly having a go at doing mine. I have been working on cars for years and changed numerous cambelts, including some real tricky ones. The one on the Clio looks pretty similar to the setup on the Ford Puma 1.7 in that there is a timing variator and fully floating pulleys. The hardest...

There are a few JC- 129 boxes on ebay.

If he sells the tools on ebay after he would also get a fair amount of wedge back.

I would invest in a Mig welder. We have had a Clarke Turbo weld 130TE for nearly 20 years here, and it is still going strong. It has welded up a few cars that were completely rotten so has certainly earned its keep. I am not keen on the no-gas variants. They are ok in some ways, like you don't...

if he doesnt take it I may be interested.

Sounds like a similar problem to the one I have on my car, except I still have drive. I just get the banging/grinding whist accerating at a reasonable speed.

I have the same problem on my car, I don't have a sunroof or aircon... Could be a leak from around the windscreen or under the scuttle panel? I haven't had the chance to look at mine yet.

I have used contitech belts on a few cars now with no problems. I did look at Gates kits, but all of the ones I saw had plastic pulleys which looked identical to the Contitech ones.