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I have been busy today fitting my replacement gearbox.
I have made a bick of a c**k up though, when reconnecting the steering column I have got it 180º out of alignment, so that when the wheels are straight the steering wheel is upside down.
The only problem is I have bolted the subframe back...
You don't really need to remove all of the suspension, undo the nuts on the end of the driveshafts (easiest way is to do this first. Remove wheel centres whilst car is on the ground and crack them before jacking the car up to remove wheels)
Then just undo the bolts holding the ball joints onto...
Maybe after they had timed it up they turned over the engine by "Hand" (more likely a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley) and they had the timing wrong initially.
This caused the piston to hit a valve or two which weakened them.
They then set the timing correctly and sent the car on...
I think that is what I will do. I can't see that lowering the car 15mm would make camber bolts necessary, I have never bothered in the past for bigger drops than that.
My car has Eibach Pro kit springs on it on KYB dampers, the ride is firm for sure but I wouldn't describe it as harsh and handling is excellent. It isn't so low that it bottoms out either.
I have had cheaper springs (apex) on another car in the past and they were dreadful, poor ride, poor...
When my car came to me it was fitted with Eibach pro kit lowering springs, KYB dampers and camber bolts in the front suspension.
I think they give a 15mm drop on a cup like mine.
When I had to dissasemble the front suspension i only realised that the bolts were camber type once it was taken...
I have a stealth Ktec system and I hate it. Once I get my gearbox fixed it is going up for sale and I am getting a standard replacement.
My daughter complains about the noise when she sits in the back, although it isn't too bad in the front. It just sounds a bit chavvy IMO.
And that is the...
I have Cooper Zeons on my car (There when I bought it)
I wouldn't say they were anywhere near as bad as Linglongs, Wanli etc, but they are a hard compound so they are not brilliant either.
The Avon ZZ3's are a softer compound, and I have found them to grip ok, but when they do let go they do so...
It is making a grinding whilst accelerating and often clunks whilst pulling away, I think it may be diff bearings as it happens in all of the gears.
I also get a tinkling noise from the box area at steady high speeds, like on the dual carriageway.
Gear selection is fine, when draining the oil...
I think I would miss the acceleration.
I think the easiest route would be to get my box fixed, as decent JC5-129's seem quite hard to find for sensible money.
Ok, thanks for that. Does it make much difference in the real world (on road not on track)
On my daily commute I do find the ratios a bit short, and it could do with a taller top gear.
I have a gearbox issue with my car (172 cup) and I know where I can get a JC5-089 gearbox from a Phase 1 car.
I understand the main difference is the final drive ratio. Is the gearing taller on the JC-5-089 or the JC5-129
Also are there any other differences which makes one better than the...
I just paid around £90 for a Valeo from Carparts4less (with a discount), just after I did so they reduced the price slightly. :confused:
If you did fancy an LUK they are £69 from buypartsby.
I would have gone for the LUK if I had seen it first, as they are perfectly fine and are often Valeo...
I am the 13th owner of my car. Could be a record on here?
I can see why, it can be used everyday but there are better cars for that task.
With any older car it is better to buy on condition and recent history, rather than mileage or how many owners it has had.
I had a cone filter on my car when I got it. the first thing I did was remove it and fit a standard airbox as it sounded crap.
The cone filter then went on ebay, and I got more for that than I paid for the standard airbox.
I will get around to fitting a standard exhaust as well. Loud exhaust...